Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Dances With The Earth@Suhani Pittie- S/S '13



And  I  saw  that  the  sacred  hoop  of  my  people  was  one  of  many  hoops  that  made  one  circle, wide as daylight and as starlight, and in the centre grew one mighty flowering tree to shelter all children of one mother and one father. And I saw that it was holy. Black Elk, Ogalala Sioux

Far  beyond  the  hectic  concrete  jungle  of  modern  life,  there  exists  a  parallel  reality,  an undiscovered  world  where  people  still  see  and  feel  things  in  their  purest  and  innocent  forms. They are fierce hunters and warriors who inhabit a world that is green and abundant. They are gentle  believers  of  the  Spirits  that  recognize  all  of  nature,  as  one.  Their  lives  are  far  removed from our own today, yet they are where we all began. Theirs is a way of experiencing the world that is perhaps as old as human consciousness itself.

Whether  it  is  the  Dongrias  of  Orissa,  the  Aborigines  of  Australia  or  the  Navajos  in America,  all forest  dwellers  are  privy  to  an  insight  that  is  intimate  and  profound.  They  see  human  beings as  only  one  component  in  a  system  of  complex  inter-relationships  between  plants,  animals and  physical  forces  .  All  life  as  it  is  known  to  them,  human,  animal,  bird  or  fish,  is  part  of  an unchanging interconnected system, one vast network of relationships. The Earth is perceived as the Mother of all and is inseparable from their own bodies.

They  live  in  uncodified  but  more  personal  societies.  Relationships  are  the  foundation  of  their culture.  Loneliness  is  not  a  problem  in  their  world,  whether  they  are  with  kin  or  alone  with
nature.  Neither  is  identity.  Nor  is  moral  confusion.  Or  boredom.  They  remind  us  that  our  way is  not  the  only  way.  Inspite  of  the  incredible  hardships  and  danger  they  face  everyday,  their spirit  is  rich  with  an  ancient  wisdom  we  have  forgotten.  Their  story  is  written  in  song. 

Their dance is a soul enriching rhythm that honors the circle of life. And, in the unified circle that they form,  they  venerate  their  most  intimate  connection.  Within  themselves,  each  other  and  their Universe.


References: Sacha Dean Biyan, Jared Diamond



Collection Note
Most primitive cultures practiced some form of Paganism. These include folk religions that use animistic,  pantheistic  or  transformational  rituals.  Jewelry  was  connected  with  spirituality  and typically revolved around the concept that souls or spirits exist in humans, as well as in animals, plants or inanimate objects. Ornaments became a celebration or an offering to a Spirit in nature that they considered a deity.

Copper , one of the earliest metals used by humans takes predominance in the collection. It is found in its purest forms in nature, a reason perhaps why it was discovered early and was used for  its  aesthetic  quality  to  create  ornaments  and  artefacts.    Suhani  employs  this  metal  as  her base, to connect and reclaim its original relevance.

The  ‘circle’  of  connection  forms  a  key  shape  in  the  collection  –  whether  it  appears  in  a  calm, clean spiral bangle or a fierce ‘spoke’ neckpiece .Coloured cord ‘coils’ bind the concept that all of nature is one.The  intertwined  trellised  vines,  flora  and  fauna  in  the  forest  inspired  motifs  emphasize  the forest dwellers’ belief that all life is intricately linked.
Primeval   art   drawings,   earthen   dwellings,   the   sun   and   moon   patterns   manifest   as   a representation  of  their  ancient  understanding  that  the  Earth,  nature  and  they  themselves  are part of a vast network of relationships.Acrylic  is  infused  as  an  almost  ‘aloof  and  distant’  element  to  signify  an  opposing  world disconnected from the earliest wisdom we all once had.

Ornaments:  hair  bands,  ‘borlas’,  ear  buttons,  ear  'kanautis',  necklaces,  belts,  cuffs,  bangles, armbands, anklets.


Moon Magic@Asmita Marwa






MOONMAGIC


There she stood, in the midst of the busy, starlit flea market... this beautiful gypsy woman bathed in moonlight. Every line on her face reflected deep thought, mystery and intensity, her expressive eyes telling you stories of her travels across oceans and boundaries. She
passed by me, caressing my thoughts and evoking a sense of awe for the
extraordinary life she has lived.

Thus was born Moon Magic. Where I explore diverse prints, textures and fabrics reflecting the myriad cultures and places that she may have wandered to, in search of the true meaning of life. The dreamlike collage of Japanese floral prints, hand quilted patchwork jackets and old pieces of mirror-work are a tribute to the eclectic spirit of life. The recurring motif I have used – of the beautiful, earthy women that famous artist Vaikuntam breathed life into – celebrates womanhood. While the synergy of contrasting fabrics and materials,
creates the vibe of an urban gypsy.

Stitching together all of these thoughts is the embroidered "Aham Brahmasmi", the underlying belief of this collection. It means I am Brahman.... I am God... a part of the universal life force. This soulful collection is for the eternal wanderer and truth seeker that
exists in all of us…





Asmita Marwa is an Indian fashion designer, rated by Vogue as one of nine top up-and-coming international designers.

 

Marwa began designing clothes in Hyderabad in the 1990s. She was the first Hyderabad designer to enter the Telugu film industry. Numerous actors, including Nagarjuna, Balakrishna, Preity Zinta, Anjala Zaveri, Shriya, Mahesh Babu, Tabu, Asin, Charmy, and Anushka, have worn her clothes, in movies like Manmadhudu, Santhosham, Premante Idera, Arjun, Attadu, Pokiri, and Gharshana.
In December 2003 Marwa launched a fashion label, Asmita, sold through her signature store Reves d’Etoile and at "xlnc" in Hyderabad and "Aza" in
Mumbai and Delhi. Marwa's designs for Asmita featured in the Blenders Pride Fashion Fringe Show in 2004. In 2008 She Took Part In The Lakme India Fashion Week.

Lakmé Fashion Week:March/April; 2008 The collection "Gaia-An Awakening" Fall Winter March 2009 'Maya and her Jaggery Knots' was Asmita Marwa's third collection, which combined diverse elements like Khadi, Antique Banaras, Tartan Checks, Telugu Calligraphy and giant roses.

For many years Marwah wrote a style column in the Hyderabad Times

Marwah is married to businessman Harvesh Marwah and has a son Karan Aryaman Marwaha.

http://www.asmitadesign.com

Friday, March 15, 2013

Sanchita Ajjampur's Fall Winter- 2013




Womenswear collection- Fall/Winter 13

 
An imaginary New World inspired by the Panchatantra Tales, where bejewelled monkeys, exotic flora and fauna are painted in a fantastic colour palette to accentuate the surrealistic quality of the collection.

 

 
Unconventional hand-painted florals from Indian mythology create a refined femininity, while the contrast of strong crystal edges adds a new three dimensionality to the luxe printed duchesse, satins and gossamer fabrics.

 

 
Tapered silhouettes offer the ultimate in luxury and curiosity, effortlessly blurring the line between day and evening wear.

 

 

Menswear collection-Fall/Winter 13

 

 
Sleek male grooming with a cultural and historical twist.

 
Camouflage prints in aviator and metallic shades imbue unexpected fabrics with a militant sensibility, subverting the traditional print through embellishment that mixes Indian military, mythology and textures to create the ultimate urban warrior.

 

Sanchita Ajjampur

Sanchita was born in Mumbai and moved to Europe at the age of three. Educated in Vienna and the UK, she studied art in Paris and earned her Fashion degree at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne. She specialised in fashion and industry at the Domus Academy, Milan, obtaining a Master's Degree in Fashion and Technology.  Having travelled and lived in Europe most of her life she speaks and writes also German, Italian and French, as well as colloquial Indian languages.

 

She returned to Italy to work with Romeo Gigli in the early 1990s, designing Callaghan then produced by Zamasport in Novara, and later collaborated with Moschino in Milan and with Tom Ford at Gucci in Florence and London. She has worked along side Lee Mc Queen for more than 10 years.  She has exhibited her "applied art" embellished works with artist Arianna Caroli in Rome and Chicago and with the late John Drake Moore in Venice and Delhi. In 2007, she worked on ‘Sanchita for Villa Moda’ with Villa Moda Kuwait and Dubai. In collaboration with Sheikh Majed Al Sabah, Jeff Koons, and Damien Hirst she worked on the project “sanchita for I love souk” for the Al Sabha Art and Design Gallery.

 

A few years ago, Sanchita saw the potential and opportunities for an Indian fashion brand with western influences and decided to return to India, choosing the city of Bangalore as her base. In partnership with her brother, she founded Sanfab Pvt. Ltd, the holding company of the sanchita brand, one of the first fashion companies in India to develop a European business model and technology-driven infrastructure. Anthropologie, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong, Evoluzione, Collage are some of the retail store that stock Sanchita. She is currently the Creative Director of the sanchita men’s, women’s and accessories collections and a creative consultant for Lanvin, Etro, Marni and other European luxury brands which are produced by sanfab.

 

Sanchita does her own research and development and has travelled the globe to study its ancient arts and crafts, especially India, where she learned about spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing techniques, and wooden-frame embroidery. In addition, she is a specialist in textiles and applied materials, which she also designs and patents. 

Sanchita Fables Book and the Fables collection was launched in 2010 and the Fables Cool Kids collection for Lane Crawford, Hong Kong in 2012. In 2012, a collaboration with Swarovski saw her exhibit sanchita leather accessories studded with Swarovski elements at the India International Leather Fair in Chennai. She was appointed the Chair Person for the Indo Italian Chambers of Commerce and Industries South Region in 2012.

 

The cultural experiences and influences of different places and peoples have left an indelible imprint on the designer’s creative spirit, infusing her designs with an innovative and eclectic favor. Stereotypical boundaries are broken down to focus on body shape, motion and functional ease in a mix of avant-garde forms and modular pieces that pay tribute to the femininity and grace, vulnerability and valour, dreams and desires of the modern woman.

 

'Humanoids' by Suman Nathwani-Autumn Winter 2013-14



Suman is a category innovator in terms of being India's first sleep wear designer and in counseling women who are recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures.  She has been actively interacting with women post the mastectomy procedure and has even counselled and helped in sourcing the correct prosthesis for post ops.

Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.







This season is particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW. The vibrant range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey.


The core inspiration for this collection is derived from romance and the harmonic connect between human and technology. From lines of aero dynamism . Reflectivity in surfaces and morphing of metal surfaces; a new romanticism is derived. This new world has a combination of futuristic elements; like hybridization of natural and mechanical products, geometrical shapes and surfaces in pure forms. In single term, the whole concept can be better termed as "humanoids".

This season is particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW . The vibrant range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey. The mood is nonchalantly playful and somewhat self-indulgent. The collection is targeted at the contemporary woman who dresses to reflect her own moods, rather than to please her man. Luxury is personal. Therefore, even lingerie is more streamlined and sexily comfortable, as opposed to restrictive styles that overtly dramatize the art of seduction. Anyway, romance is different these days; boudoirs and bedrooms are less about foreplay and ‘tease’, as more couples spend time with their beloved gadgets before saying good night. 



Suman Nathwani is no stranger to bedtime glamour and has single-handedly brought in the revolution of shaking and stirring mindsets and bringing to the fore the concept of designer lingerie and sleepwear in India. Innerwear, sleepwear- the brief and beautiful creations that are meant for bed and boudoir, are making a bold statement thanks to this modest designer from Kolkata.

Suman Nathwani's offers a repertoire of seductive pieces. So it's no wonder she has a loyal clientele, developed over two decades, and spread across the globe.

However, as a daily regimen, she innovates for the average Indian woman, in terms of the materials, delicate embellishments like lace and crystals, color palette, comfort, style and acceptability.

Her role as India's only intimate wear designer comes with an added responsibility of educating the masses about the benefits of wearing the correct innerwear and its physical, emotional and psychological impact.

Suman’s journey in last 2 decades has carved its way through conventional and couture dimensions of new creations in this field.

A regular contributor to prominent magazines and newspapers, Suman has recently started counseling women recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures. Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.

Suman Nathvani is a self made designer and has been designing since 1988. Her aim is to create a market in India for lingerie and sleepwear and convert this segment into a full fledged industry.

Suman, with her unique designing style was the first ever designer to display her sleepwear collection at the Wills India Fashion Week in 2006.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Vaishali Shadangule@AW 2013



 

“MEKHALA”

on my journey on the Indian textile when I was criss-crossing the State of Assam – the land that offers excellent ground for fishing and hunting, where still birch bark canoes are used to cross distances, I came across traditional attire of Assam known as Mekhala chadar.

They were of three pieces (like the South-Indian half saree) – a skirt like a sarong, a blouse and an additional piece of cloth draped over the shoulder. The Mekhla (or the skirt) is known for its shine that comes from the muga silk unique to Assam. The fabric is grown and weaved in almost every second household of a village.  Infact, in every Assamesse house, one can notice a separate room where looms are fixed. In the afternoon hours, women folk enters the room and begins weaving with loom echoing the sound all over tuck a tick , tuck a tick.

Inspired by the magic of fabric, its design and texture, I tried to innovate something which symbolizes it aesthetically. While working on the mekhla , I have tried to incorporate elements of that sorts in my designs. Beautiful drapes and mix of fine constructions will bring out the beauty of it by retaining original elements will generate a larger interest. Folds, twists and the turns in the garment symbolize complex lanes and architectural design of the villages. The vibrant colour pallet of the collection gives a feel of the brightness of their lifestyle. A random fall in the garment sometimes surprises you when it appears like a flower. Something which separates muga silk from mekhala chadar is its motives. So I have contemporized it with fine cut work and surface texturing of wool and metallic thread.

Over all the collection will make its viewers believe that an Indian traditional textile is glamorous enough to compete with global fashion race.

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Mrinalini Gupta@A/W - BLACK.LOVERS.ANONYMOUS




Mrinalini started balancing lines in 2002 with NIFT. She furthered her training in design with MAHARISHI-London & Rajesh Pratap Singh practicing design addition and subtraction. Dodging modernity and tradition, Mrinalini seeks to fuse her basic love of things with her love for basic things, always with freedom from a single binding philosophy and an amicable tolerance to minimalism and maximalism

 
 
Mrinalini launched in India in 2007, the philosophy seeking to merge left with right, to power into a universal culture with the cable connecting to India.


BLACK.LOVERS.ANONYMOUS is a dark collection with accents. Surfacing from the underground, the collection cuts on the intersecting lines of fringe players, hustlers and lively lowlifes in a non linear narrative … black comic style.

Myoho@MELANGE Autumn Winter

 



Myoho is the passion child of Kiran Jaisinghani and Meghna Agarwal. A showcase culling the essense of Indian handlooms and marrying them with modern sensiblity.


Inspired by the forgotten art of the Gond tribe, the ensemble showcased a suitcase full of muted yet vibrant colours and an eccentric yet eclectic aesthetic. Organic and luxe, this was vintage Myoho. The tribe is indigenous to parts of eastern Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. From the looks of it – The line seems to be a wonderful blend of east meets west. I love how the two are dipping into India’s rich textile heritage and creating something so chic and accessible to women.


Miss Globe International India 2012 Arlette Grao showed off some of the collection. Also seen at the event were Kiran, Meghna, Shruti Bhandari, Vikram Raizada and others.
Myoho’s Autumn Winter Collection, to be shown at the upcoming Wills India Fashion Week On Sunday, March 17th.


Unveiled for a sneak preview on Saturday March 9, 2013 evening at MELANGE, the discreet and upscale fashion house in Altamount Road where the label has been retailing for over five years now, the ensemble showcased a suitcase full of muted yet vibrant colours and an eccentric yet eclectic aesthetic. Organic and luxe, this was vintage Myoho.


Paromita Banerjee @Autumn/Winter 2013


CHARU PARASHAR @AUTUMN WINTER 2013





This Autumn Winter season the designer takes you down the lane of romanticism and glam. Out and out an evening collection signifying over the top bling and edgy ensembles.The usp of the collection is the print which is inspired by the tombs and ceilings of Egyptian palaces. The tile work of these tombs tracends into the base fabric of these beautiful prints and the intricate embroideries running all through gives   a rich and dramatic feel to the whole collection. Utilitarian design in an artisan direction focusing on functionality and supreme craftsmanship is charu’s take on her Autumn Winter  2013 Collection.
Fabric :  The  Fabrics used are Silk,Satin,Georgettes, Velvet and Chiffon.
The Sillouethes:  The sillouethes are very edgy and structured with Engineered shape and integral structure. Embroidered Pants are the highlight of the collection. On the whole the collection is very high on details and is  ultra  contemporary with  details like side zippers to the trousers , Jackets  and Tunics with applique work , quilted shorts , satin printed Blazers, shift dresses  and gowns giving it a dramatic  red carpet  feel.

Colours:  The Collection palette  starts with grey as a base colour giving warmth with opulent  emerald green vase print on top. Going into the palette of grey and red. Ending with a mix of Grey yellow and Orange extending a luxe soul to these beautifully crafted ensembles.





As a “New Generation” designer, Charu Parashar is constantly motivated towards taking the exotic Indian craftsmanship and ancient printing techniques to the highest levels of luxury. The world of luxury couture in India has its own imprints. Flowing   hemlines playing peekaboo with Bling and fitted forms creating magic with the beauty that is the Indian woman. 

One of India’s Most Admired Couturiers, Charu parashar is synonymous with classic designs of understated elegance.  A strong design sensibility Combined with rich detailing through the genius of centuries old Indian Craftsmanship Techniques undoubtly makes her ensembles Desired by the woman of today. The brand exudes a sense of Romantic-sexy sophistication empowering the Modern woman.

Charu Parashar label has built a strong legacy in the organized fashion segment in India and internationally. The label retails from 54 hi street fashion outlets across 7 countries globally today. In the last 10 years its showcase journey has been across New York, Philadelphia, Dubai, Kuwait, Toronto, London, Jakarta, Barcelona, Paris and Milan which clearly indicates the acceptance of the label into a larger and contemporary Diasporas. Her quest for providing perfect quality with immaculate finish & attention to detail for every garment has earned her respect globally.

Charu Parashar is Designer member with Fashion Design Council of India and has been regularly showcasing in Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Dubai Fashion Week and many other International platforms.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Dark Knights by Nalanda Bhandari@ AW 2013

Autumn Winter 2013 Collection Dark Knights







Designer Nalanda Bhandari's Muse is a Girl - a Dream of the Knight in shining armour!

The Collection showcases a Distinct Day Casual ,and Evening Wear look which one can wear to work and after,fitted body forms that give the figure a great look and an evening wear Collection with kaftans to cater to the middle eastern market.

This Girl is the Dream of the Knight in shining armour!

Feminine, free spirited and confident. Her label encapsulates all that a woman is - sexy, sensual, and with a mind of her own. The line plays around strong silhouettes, international trends and a very distinct personality. Well heeled, articulate and comfortable in her skin, this woman steers towards graceful, romantic and avant garde creations. With emphasis on quality, cut and finish complimenting the woman, her current Creations reflect the trend of the season with sprinkles of embellishments and embroidery.

The label houses a fully functional workshop in Mumbai and the under the expert guidance of Nalandda, the line has established a patronage from among the crème of the society.

VIRTUES: AW13 @ WIFW, New Delhi.




AW’13 collection is inspired by the Nawabs of Awadh in 18th century. An Indian line by the designers is a story of Zubeida – a courtesan in the post-Mughal state of Awadh during the 18th century. The Nawabs of Awadh were renowned for their extravagance and patronage of the best courtesans, craftsmen and cooks. The cultural accomplishments of this time and place have resonated well beyond its borders and today its memories are still capable of evoking a potent sense of nostalgia.


 The collection is a story of a courtesan and her extensive wardrobe with rich vintage embroideries and classy cuts. The silhouettes are adapted from a period and are retouched to give more contemporary look. The Lehengas, The Kalidars, The Kediya Jackets  The Dupattas – imply a complete covered yet a sexy look.


The colors are strictly black and shades of white with hints of pinks and reds. The fabrics used are Georgettes, Cottons and Mashroos. There is a an extensive use of hand block prints in natural dyes on Mashroos and cottons.



Virtues by Viral, Ashish and Vikrant is based from Ahmedabad and retailed at major designer stores across the country. Vintage Indian textiles have remained their inspiration. Experimenting with yarn and weavers have always been a passion.