BREAD & BUTTER - THE ROCK SUMMER 2012

Once upon a time, in the city of Berlin:

There are 50 good old acquaintances, who are celebrating a feast every season (Bread & Butter). The guests (exhibitors) come mainly from Germany, France, Italy, Spain, England and The Netherlands.

All the guests take their seats at a big table (Denim Base). Each one of them knows the ritual. Each one knows how the other one is ticking. One guest takes himself more important than he really is, the other one is more timid and calmer, the next one likes to kick his opponent against the leg under the table. Some have good table manners, others cannot even eat with knife and fork without cutting themselves. But all of them are used to the other's quirks, in the end the feast had always been well and good.

There were only 50 seats at the big table, and since nearly no one wanted to miss out on the feast, the circle was nearly always the same. The audience (visitors and press) nearly always saw the same faces, were always told the same tales. Boredom arose, at times dissatisfaction even. The audience began to defame the guests, some even questioned the whole feast itself. A number of guests did not like this, and began questioning their attendance since they were no longer celebrated. Thus some guests stayed away.

A few of the regular guests could not really afford the participation in the feast anymore, others celebrated their own feast and waited in vain for a great audience. Others just did not accept the invitation of the host (Karl-Heinz Müller), although the table was richly laid.

So the host suddenly had the opportunity to invite new guests to the table, since there were seats available. And so the usual ritual changed, and a whole new circle formed, since the new guests were not lost to lethargy, and had other tales to tell (Berlin-Tempel of Denim, Denim Religions Show, Sport & Street Festival).

The feast had become another one, it was unfamiliar and new. New and old guests mixed, a whole new circle formed. There were new topics discussed, new faces seen, and the audience was thrilled. It was exciting again. Former regular guests had become onlookers and regretted to not sit at the table as usual – since in the end, many of them would have loved to take part in the feast.

However, if all had followed the host's invitation, as usual, this new kind of feast had not have been possible, since the table would have been full. And now? Everyone is content with the successful feast, the old and the new guests, the audience and the host.

Now, the host has to carefully consider who he will invite for the next feast, since the number of seats at his table remains limited. One thing is certain: there will be changes again. The audience should be curious.

The host

http://vimeo.com/breadbutter/tempel-of-denim-preview

http://vimeo.com/breadbutter/httpvimeocombreadbutterdenim-religion-show

http://vimeo.com/45186338

http://vimeo.com/breadbutter/tempel-of-denim-preview

http://vimeo.com/45234678

CollectBernion>Bernhard Willhelm

 

Again abandoning the catwalk for his men's collection, Bernhard Willhelm created his own rainbow-colored apocalyptic world.
Like dozing zombies, his pale models were strewn about a dimly lit space reminiscent of a vault. Their garb, however, writhed with life. Separates were saturated with Kool-Aid colors and overlaid with ragtag fabrics and patterns, not unlike foreign fruit in a night market.

Knotted rope held together ensembles or wrapped around shoes, implying an unravelling, while jackets with feathered puff sleeves suggested angels among the heathens. But it’s unlikely any saints will be found in this rather dark presentation.

(c) Hint

Prada Gives the Gift of GIF

The Italian house has partnered with the Armenian-born, Paris-based artist Vahram Muratyan (of the recent book Paris vs New York) to create a series of twitching and bewitching GIFs, a primordial form of Internet animation that's having a resurgence. All the accessories featured in the Parallel Universes GIFs are from Prada's 2012 collections, themselves a nod to retro car culture.

BREAD & BUTTER TradeShow 4-6 July 2012

BREAD & BUTTER GmbH & Co. KG realises the concept of an innovative trade fair event for contemporary clothing culture.

With its ‘tradeshow for selected brands’, BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG realises the concept of an innovative trade fair event for contemporary clothing culture.

The internationally prevailing trade show, held twice a year since 2001, provides a creative marketing and communication platform for selected brands, labels and designers from the progressive segment that is unrivalled throughout the world. Under the maxim “fun & profit”, BREAD & BUTTER unites inspiration and business. The brands exhibiting at BREAD & BUTTER present themselves integrally, in keeping with their individual philosophy and within their own brand culture and emotional setting.

Details
Date: July 4-6
Venue: Berlin-Templehof Airport
Time: 10am-7pm (6pm last day)
Location: Berlin, Germany

Money Where Your Mouse Is: Joyce

The Barneys of Hong Kong, Joyce unveiled its shiny and long-awaited website today. Designed to resemble a fashion magazine, it goes all out in the editorial department, featuring interviews with in-store designers ranging from Alexander Wang to Yohji Yamamoto, as well as endless video footage.
But while editorial is nice, e-commerce is better. And so, not by accident, an e-shop has also been rolled out, carrying capsules by nine rising designers: Charles Frederick Worth, David Koma, Quentin Veron, Rad Hourani, Heaven Tanudiredja, Pier Atkinson, Una Burke, Tsolo Munkh, and Yang Du. With nearly every Western label throwing itself at the Chinese market, it's nice to see a little restraint and originality.
*Una Burke for Joyce
(C) Hint

Lakmé Fashion Week>Gen Next Batch>Winter/Festive 2012

7 Gen Next, 15 Emerging & 3 Accessory Designers Selected

Mumbai, May 28 ’2012: Riding high on the achievements of LFW Summer/Resort 2012, the esteemed panel of Lakmé Fashion Week Advisory Board members met to announce several exciting initiatives for LFW Winter/Festive 2012, scheduled from August 3 to August 7, 2012.

Indian Textile Day: LFW will be dedicating an exclusive day for Indian textiles again this season as a part of the ongoing effort to celebrate Indian textiles and weaves. The day will witness a strong pool of textile designers from across the country with live demonstrations by craftsmen throughout the week. This season will continue to host knowledge sharing workshops and panel discussions with industry veterans to bring awareness and increase support for Indian textiles


Talent Box: With the overwhelming response and success of Talent Box shows - the international concept of showcasing designs in a second showing  area at ‘The Source’,  will celebrate its one year anniversary this season

Supporting its mission to promote new talent, the respected panel of the LFW Advisory Board members also shortlisted the new batch of Gen Next, Emerging and Accessory Designers for Winter/Festive 2012. The popular Gen Next category at LFW, in its 7^th year, announced the fourteenth batch of promising young designers for its next edition.

As compared to Winter/Festive 2011, this upcoming season of WF 2012 has generated a credible increase in applications across categories, a testament of the reach the platform represents and the business transacted last season. LFW Winter/Festive 2012 received around 250 designer applications across categories


Submissions came from 27 cities across the country along with international applicants from Colombo, Dubai, Dhaka, Ontario, Sydney, Hong Kong and Texas

Winter/ Festive 2012 will see 7 Gen Next, 15 Emerging and 3 Accessory designers showcasing their collections. Applications were judged on the criteria of quality, innovation and creativity, marketability and commercial viability. Eminent designer and stylist Aki Narula continues to mentor the Gen Next designers this season as well.

The Lakmé Fashion Week Advisory Board comprises of eminent stakeholders from the fashion fraternity, including designers, buyers and the media. This season, the responsibility of selecting the future talent rested on the shoulders of experts - Anamika Khanna- Designer, Dr. Alka Nishar- AZA, Dr. Darlie O' Koshy- AEPC, Krishna Mehta-Designer, Pradeep Hirani- Kimaya, Priya Tanna, Vogue,  Sujata Assomull- Launch Editor Harpers Bazaar along with Anjana Sharma, Director – Fashion, IMG Reliance and Purnima Lamba- Head Lakmé, Innovation, who are all part of the LFW Advisory Board.

Talking about the new talent and applications this season, Purnima Lamba- Lakmé, Innovations said, “The Lakmé Fashion Week Advisory Board has always been a strong supporter of new talent and believes in providing some exceptional opportunities allowing designers to showcase their work on a larger scale. As the newest member on the Advisory Board, I look forward to bring my experience in the beauty industry and take this platform to the next level. We are also very thrilled to introduce to you a fresh batch of designers that show a lot of promise with their futuristic designs and creativity. We are positive that our new initiatives and the Gen Next designers paired with the industry stalwarts will play a key role in setting newer benchmarks.”

Also present at the Advisory Board, Anjana Sharma, Director-Fashion, IMG Reliance said, “LFW has been conceived with an aim to integrate India into the global fashion world. The perception of Indian designers globally is that of immense talent, and as supporters of the business of fashion, it is our endeavour to discover and put forward the best. As a platform conceived by LFW, Gen Next has been one of our highlights since its inception and has become the most coveted program encouraging young talent. This season our main focus it to strengthen our commitment towards young talent. These inclusions reiterate our long-term commitment to the growth of the fashion industry in India. We are excited to see this new talent take a leap at Lakmé Fashion Week this season.”

Name of Designer		City
Gen Next Designers
Aniket Satam	Mumbai
Asa Kazingmei	Mumbai
Astha Sethi & Siddharth Arora	New Delhi
Kavita Sharma	Kanpur
Mehak Pruthi	New Delhi
Richa Agarwal	Mumbai
Sneha Arora	Kolkata
Emerging Designers
Aarti Vijay Gupta	Mumbai
Mayank Anand & Shraddha Nigam	Mumbai
Nikhil Thampi	Mumbai
Nimish Shah	Mumbai
Nupur Kanoi	Kolkata
Pallavi Goenka	Ahmedabad
Payal Khandwala	Mumbai
Pernia Qureshi	New Delhi
Pia Pauro	Gurgaon
Prashant Chauhan	New Delhi
Roma Narsinghani	Mumbai
Siddharth Arya	Mumbai
Surya Sarkar	Kolkata
Tanya Sharma	Mumbai
Yogesh Chaudhary	Gurgaon
Accessory Designers
Kaabia & Sasha Grewal	New Delhi
Nitya Arora	Mumbai
Rohan Arora	Kolkata

An Elsa Schiaparelli Pre-Frenzy Frenzy

The buyer who "sourced" these Elsa Schiaparelli originals for 1stdibs has chosen to remain anonymous. A wise move, considering the surrealist Italian designer is on the verge of a major moment as the subject—along with Miuccia Prada—of the Costume Institute's next fashion exhibit. Opening May 10, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada On Fashion follows the Met's blockbuster Alexander McQueen show last year. So, if your job was to collect white-hot 20th-century objets, would you want crazed fashion freaks knowing who you are?
Key pieces from the online sale of costume jewelry, accessories and sunglasses include: a compact in the shape of a telephone (1935) that still contains its original mirror and powder puff, part of a collaboration with Salvador Dali; a necklace made from gilded pine cones and velvet ribbon (1939); and a pair of ostrich clips from the circus collection designed by Jean Schlumberger for Schiaparelli (1938).
Online sale begins May 2 at 1stdibs.com

Diesel is the Target of a Malicious Spoofby

by Heather Corcoran
It’s known for outré advertising, but Diesel’s latest campaign seems to have taken its Live Stupid motto a little too seriously. A new website called Diesel for Women appears to be the latest in the Italian label's ongoing Successful Living campaign. But the proposed secret to success this time? Abortions.

The well-produced site imagines a world called Misopolis, where sex reigns free and female factory workers are given “the same rights as successful people.” The press release brings up legitimate women's issues (“[they're] marginalized, abused, raped, impoverished and exploited by the garment industry”) before veering into tastelessness (“we are giving them recognition, dignity, the right to have a safe abortion and fun”). That sentiment is echoed in over-the-top slogans: "Abortion Pill, A Gift from God," "Immaculate Contraception," and "Say Goodbye to Coat Hangers."
Fashion’s politics have always leaned left, but this is not your average pro-choice message. In fact, the ads are not real, according to a Diesel spokesperson, who tells the Huffington Post, "We will ensure all steps are taken to hold the person(s) accountable for this fake campaign activity."
Though no one is claiming responsibility yet, Twitter users have collectively determined the campaign was created by the Amsterdam-based Women on Waves. The pro-choice group apparently believes that, in their opposition to abstinence-only education, it's okay to make light of a traumatic experience for millions.

Update:
After sending shockwaves through the blogosphere and bitter condemnation from Diesel, it turns out the Diesel for Women site is indeed a spoof started by Women on Waves. The Dutch non-profit issued a letter explaining that they, along with the activist group Yes Men, “designed the hoax to expose the violations of women’s rights that take place in the garment industry.”
But why pose as Diesel? The organization cites the 2011 report “Captured by Cotton” which claims that companies such as Diesel exploit garment workers hired by subcontractors through the “sumangali scheme,” forcing women to work for years in anticipation of a lump-sum payment. The ad’s faux-factory, with its abundant abortion-related imagery, was intended to point out that many garment factory workers (75 – 90% of whom are women, average age 19) face unsafe conditions, rampant sexual harassment, poor healthcare and no maternity leave. Many of these factories are located in countries where abortion is illegal. Women on Waves is campaigning to make medical abortion available to women all over the world. May we recommend Change.org?

B&B-Fashion Tradeshow>Summer 4-6 July 2012-TheRock

BREAD & BUTTER HIGH FIDELITY
The 26th BREAD & BUTTER – tradeshow for selected brands again exceeds the high expectations of the international textile industry: with the sixth event on the historic Airport Berlin-Tempelhof, the strongest result since the return to Berlin could be recorded.


The mood was excellent throughout the three days of event, despite the difficult economic circumstances, following the motto: NOW MORE THAN EVER! The absolute numbers prove an unbroken high internationality in the trade visitor structure, and remarkably more German visitors came to Berlin-Tempelhof.

Karl-Heinz Müller, Managing Director BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG: "Berlin has once more proofed and further established itself as one of the world's most important fashion metropolises. The run on Berlin has not stopped. The versatility of the different events is an essential part of this. It was the strongest BREAD & BUTTER since the return to Berlin in summer 2009. Especially the results in the Urban Superior and L.O.C.K.  – Labels of Common Kin areas exceeded the expectations of the exhibiting brands and labels. Our exhibitors have showed themselves in the best colours. We thank all those involved for their great commitment."

Last Tuesday night the order round A/W 2012/2013 kicked off with the traditional B&B Opening Party that welcomed approx. 3,500 guests. The "HIGH FIDELITY: prepare for a strong winter" campaign ideally reflected the three tradeshow days – the international textile industry in the Urban Casualwear segment is optimally prepared and equipped for the upcoming winter. All eight hangars and the gates of the historical airport Berlin-Tempelhof were fully occupied with ca. 640 exhibitors, and could register a constantly strong frequency – especially the new TREASURY area and the expansions FIRE DEPT. at L.O.C.K. and D.O.C.K.  – Department of Contemporary Keynotes at SPORT & STREET enjoyed great popularity. The once again perfect organization of the event and the personal support of the guests before and during BREAD & BUTTER were particularly praised.

VISITOR STUCTURE
Compared to a very high level of the last winter event in January 2011, BREAD & BUTTER could once again increase its visitor numbers by 3.5 %. Despite the high internationality in the whole visitor structure, more German visitors came to Berlin-Tempelhof.

A significant increase in visitors from all Scandinavian countries, especially from Sweden and Denmark, could be registered. There were more visitors from the Netherlands, and also Swiss and Austrian visitors attended in higher numbers.

Visitor numbers from Great Britain/ Ireland and France were high and stable as usual. Also, trade visitors from the US, Canada, Brazil, India, China, South Korea, Japan and Australia were well represented. A significant increase from "Far East" could be registered. From Eastern European countries and Russia, BREAD & BUTTER could also register good increases. The expected decrease in visitor numbers from Italy, Spain and Greece was not very remarkable.

Ca. 92,500 tickets were sent out to industry professionals, relevant buyers and trade visitors before the event.

FASHION LOCATION BERLIN
Karl-Heinz Müller: "It is good and only natural if even more takes place in Berlin – in the end, success attracts. However, it is important that every format has its own theme, so that existing, successful events are not cannibalized.  I am afraid that the buyer does not really know anymore where to find what. I have visited the Show & Order, founded by my former employee Verena Malta. She has done a very good job: great location, good brand portfolio, very beautiful presentation and a lot of love for detail. But: in my opinion, Berlin cannot be managed in three days. The events have to split up better, e.g. from Tuesday to Saturday, this would mean five days. Berlin needs a real week of fashion!"

PREVIEW SUMMER 2012
Corresponding to the strong development of the "Dressed up" fashion segment, the URBAN SUPERIOR area will be further extended for the upcoming event in summer 2012. Through the docking of pavilions to the exterior of the hangars, similar to the Denim Base, the area will be extended with stand space of ca. 3,000 – 4,000 sqm. Furthermore, BREAD & BUTTER will continue to expand the accessory area TREASURY, following its enormous initial success.

Karl-Heinz Müller: "In summer 2012, BREAD & BUTTER will take place from 4 - 6 July under the motto THE ROCK: the campaign is centered around the rock, symbol of stability and immovability, reflecting the strength of character and constancy of BREAD & BUTTER – tradeshow for selected brands."

SAVE THE DATE
B&B Press Conference Tuesday, 3 July 2012, starting 4:30 p.m.
B&B Opening Party 
 Tuesday, 3 July 2012, starting 7:00 p.m.
BREAD & BUTTER  
 Wednesday to Friday, 4 to 6 July 2012

Hedi Slimane at MOCA

by Yasha Wallin

While it's becoming more common for the work of fashion designers to be featured in the rooms of major art museums, the aim of Hedi Slimane's upcoming show, California Song, at MOCA's Pacific Design Center is to celebrate the former Dior Homme designer's other passion, photography.
Opening November 12, the two-floor exhibition will feature the French photographer's portraits of California's youth culture. Through his use of black and white film, Slimane reveals a less romanticized vision of the Golden State, capturing the honest, complex mood of his subjects—brooding yet idealistic, casual yet sincere, engaged yet restless.

Portraits, publications and ephemera will be on display on the first floor, and on the second, a motion-photography installation that will include live performances by local bands like No Age. Slimane, you'll recall, is fascinated with rock musicians and concert culture—the sweat, the ritual, the idolatry—and you'll get a lot of it in this show.

(hint)