Yasutoshi Ezumi 2013-14 A/W - "Anima" MBFW TOKYO,JAPAN

 

Theme: [ Anima ]

Concept: Anima '"female figure is in the unconscious of the male, female sex"

The soul 'in Latin originally and anima

It is the inner self that is in contact with those of unconscious,

The beat conscious women and image in among the men unconscious and 'Anima' as a psychological term that has been proposed by founder Carl Gustav Jung in analytical psychology, indicating the feminine at the same time, the elements of these two it keeps track of the integration of personality Te, is as a psychological process of self-realization, of expression, while it is creative, the process holds the promise the possibility of destruction.



Ladies wear by male designers,

To capture elements gentleness feminine and masculine, straight and curved lines, red and black, and strength, men and women, conflicting, feelings, atmosphere, the management, the mix, you can create an image woman 'Anima' as self-expression of clothes go.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=-yP28EfYZAk



「男性の無意識の中にある女性像、女性性」



アニマとは本来ラテン語で’魂

無意識のものと接触する内部の自己とされる、

分析心理学の創始者　カール・グスタフ・ユングによって提唱された心理学用語として　‘Anima’ 　とは無意識下の男性のなかにある女性像と、同時に女性性を示す、この二つの要素を意識下して人格の統合をはかる事が、自己実現、表現の過程の心理としている,その過程は創造的である一方、破壊の可能性も秘めている。



男性デザイナーによる女性服、

マスキュリンとフェミニン、直線と曲線、黒と赤、強さと優しさ、男性と女性、相反する要素、感情、雰囲気、理を取り込み、混ぜ合わせ、服の自己表現として’Anima’ 女性像 を創造していく。








Biography

Yasutoshi Ezumi

江角　泰俊

Fashion / Textile Designer

Art Director


http://www.yasutoshiezumi.com/


Profile

1981年広島生まれ / Born in Hiroshima 1981



宝塚造形芸術大学短期大学部デザイン芸術科ファッションコース卒業

ロンドン、セントラルセントマーティンズ美術学校ファッション&テキスタイル科卒業

アレキサンダーマックイーン等コレクションブランドで経験を積む

2008 SS / AW アクアスキュータム　にてニットウェアデザイナーを務める

帰国後ファッション,テキスタイルデザイナー/アートディレクターとして活動

2010 AWよりファッションブランド　Yasutoshi Ezumi　を立ち上げる

JFW主催の「第3回SHINMAI Creator's project」 に選出される

2011AWより東京コレクションにて発表

2012年 株式会社Ri Designを設立

ミラノコレクションブランド、アンテプリマとのコラボレーションプロジェクト

‘ANTEPRIMA + YE’ ラインを 2013SS ミラノコレクションにて発表。

　

Yasutoshi Ezumi graduated from University of Arts Central Saint Martin College of Art & Design BA Fashion / Textile Course,

worked as an assistant in Alexander Mcqueen and as a knitwear designer in Aquascutum London 2008 SS / AW,

was working as Fashion / Textile designer and Art Director,

launched fashion brand “Yasutoshi Ezumi” from 2010 AW collection

Launched Ri Design. Ltd at 2012

Publish collaboration line ‘ANTEPRIMA + YE’ in Milano collection.

In Defense of the Met's Punk Show

by Lee Carter

The Punk show at the Met—now finishing its first weekend open to the public—has seen a range of reactions, most of them tepid, some of them hostile. Given the theme this year, the museum's attempts at whipping up interest have not been helped by the glitzy Met Gala, seen by many as emblematic of just how far removed from any anarchic notion of punk the show is.



Nor have critics been very kind. Suzy Menkes wrote in the International Herald Tribune: "How could Andrew Bolton, the brilliant and cerebral museum curator, whose blockbuster shows have included the Alexander McQueen retrospective and last year’s fusion of Elsa Schiaparelli with Miuccia Prada, have made punk seem so dull?" She concludes her rather scathing review by saying, "The true punks — those who lived and survived that moment — should find an exquisite irony in the idea that their no-future kick at a dead-end society should, 40 years on, have moved from a defiant statement from society’s impoverished and self-proclaimed social outcasts to a display of clothes for global celebrities and the super-rich having a ball."



Cathy Horyn, meanwhile, opined in the New York Times, in advance of her more agreeable Met Gala write-up, "Kill me now. I mean, I appreciate the do-it-yourself spirit of punk, but punk was never my thing, and I don’t see why I should bother now trying to be a poor imitation of Soo Catwoman or even Elizabeth Hurley in her hot Versace dress. Post-punk fashion doesn’t get any better than that expensive bit of craft and wit."



I myself wrote, for Artinfo, "The show was never meant to be a comprehensive survey of punk fashion. Indeed there are no actual punk garments, as in those worn on stage, which by now have become the sweaty detritus of performative disdain. But without a visceral connection to punk's potency, the show itself comes off as staged."



So it might seem that Bolton was so concerned about offending the punk legacy that he removed any potential conflict, reining in the purview of the show to punk's influence on high fashion. Mindful that everyone has an opinion about punk, he's said he didn't want to create a "parody." And therein lies the difficulty in focusing on a recent cultural phenomenon, one which its surviving members will certainly remember and have an interest in protecting.



But here is a thought. Perhaps, just perhaps, Bolton has been circumspect intentionally, so as to inflame the very chorus of naysayers we're seeing. Has not the ensuing chaos felt very punk?

See Crystal Renn Wearing Rad Hourani

We're all for proving naysayers wrong. Check out Crystal Renn in the look book for Rad Hourani's Unisex collection #7. Not bad for a model formerly known as "plus-sized" and who wrote a book on her struggle with weight. We might note that Hourani makes strictly curve-less, straight-lined clothes, so whatever she's doing, it's working.

Prada's Flower Shower

In Prada's spring video campaign, models—take on the characteristics of flowers—iris, dahlia, peony, tiger lily, tall poppy—culminating in a petal storm. It's cute seeing these girls, some more mature, others more budding, open up to Steven Meisel.

In the year when Prada will celebrate 100 years of foundation, the house of fashion presents an advertisement campaign shot by Steven Meisel: the adv focuses on plainness and elegance to express the numerous facets of femininity.

The protagonists are 11 models: Vanessa Axente, Saskia de Brauw, Irina Kravchenko, Eva Herzigova, Sung Hee, Irene Hiemstra, Kirsten Owen, Sasha Pivovarova, Amber Valletta, Maartje Verhoef and Raquel Zimmermann.

The leitmotivs of the images, which are full-length or cut, are the flowers that surround the beauty and the eclectic personality of the models.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AhZo0QfFO9E

REVERSAL-SS 2013>Eleonora Moccia

REVERSAL

Presentazione Collezione SS 2013

trenta7 di Eleonora Moccia

The desire to go beyond the ordinary is the inspiration behind the creations of young roman shoes designers, Eleonora Moccia. Contrast as symbolic syncretism, union, reconciliation of opposing worlds and elements that find in the design world a right meeting point, and in the particular the element of recognition. A reflection on the contrast of two worlds, male and female, that for the spring-summer 2013 collection results in an ironic and provocative AD Campaign by photographer Marco D'Amico.

The masculine in the feminine. Elements of the symbolic male world (tie, boxer, complete and shirts) are, in this way, translated in an ultra-feminine aesthetic codes, in a minimalism that is not absolutely minimal, but is enriched with details and minutiae from the highly sartorial taste.

Empty and full for volumes. Fractured tips, geometric cuts for the lines. Unusual accessories, such as locks for office bags for men. Leather and fine materials are the protagonists of all creations, declined on a color palette that ranges from leather, black and white, up to the denim.

　

Bio
Eleonora Moccia. Degree in Pshychology in 2008, in the same year she is admitted to enroll at the "Footwear - Pattern maker and Designer Program" at CERCAL, chaired by shoe designer Sergio Rossi and sited in San Mauro Pascoli, Italy. In the following years she works for shoe maker "Pollini" and for fashion brand "Rochas" in Milan. In September 2011 she decided to challenge herself in memory of her parents, from who she drives strength and inspiration. In January 2012 the brand "TRENTA7" presents its first shoe collection.

　

　

Brand Profile
Masculine declined to feminine. Hollow and full together. Broken tips, fake zips, true clasps. "Contrast" is the word for Eleonora Moccia. Minimalist but not minimal. Against all tides and most of all impatient to imposed limits. As the distorted brand logo, with its number 37 (alchemic number recurrent in her own story) turned back-to-front and vertically oriented so to symbolize the strength and the gain to break patterns.

 

Appraisal-Report-LFW@W/F-2012

Dances With The Earth@Suhani Pittie- S/S '13

And  I  saw  that  the  sacred  hoop  of  my  people  was  one  of  many  hoops  that  made  one  circle, wide as daylight and as starlight, and in the centre grew one mighty flowering tree to shelter all children of one mother and one father. And I saw that it was holy. Black Elk, Ogalala Sioux

Far  beyond  the  hectic  concrete  jungle  of  modern  life,  there  exists  a  parallel  reality,  an undiscovered  world  where  people  still  see  and  feel  things  in  their  purest  and  innocent  forms. They are fierce hunters and warriors who inhabit a world that is green and abundant. They are gentle  believers  of  the  Spirits  that  recognize  all  of  nature,  as  one.  Their  lives  are  far  removed from our own today, yet they are where we all began. Theirs is a way of experiencing the world that is perhaps as old as human consciousness itself.

Whether  it  is  the  Dongrias  of  Orissa,  the  Aborigines  of  Australia  or  the  Navajos  in America,  all forest  dwellers  are  privy  to  an  insight  that  is  intimate  and  profound.  They  see  human  beings as  only  one  component  in  a  system  of  complex  inter-relationships  between  plants,  animals and  physical  forces  .  All  life  as  it  is  known  to  them,  human,  animal,  bird  or  fish,  is  part  of  an unchanging interconnected system, one vast network of relationships. The Earth is perceived as the Mother of all and is inseparable from their own bodies.

They  live  in  uncodified  but  more  personal  societies.  Relationships  are  the  foundation  of  their culture.  Loneliness  is  not  a  problem  in  their  world,  whether  they  are  with  kin  or  alone  with
nature.  Neither  is  identity.  Nor  is  moral  confusion.  Or  boredom.  They  remind  us  that  our  way is  not  the  only  way.  Inspite  of  the  incredible  hardships  and  danger  they  face  everyday,  their spirit  is  rich  with  an  ancient  wisdom  we  have  forgotten.  Their  story  is  written  in  song. 

Their dance is a soul enriching rhythm that honors the circle of life. And, in the unified circle that they form,  they  venerate  their  most  intimate  connection.  Within  themselves,  each  other  and  their Universe.


References: Sacha Dean Biyan, Jared Diamond



Collection Note
Most primitive cultures practiced some form of Paganism. These include folk religions that use animistic,  pantheistic  or  transformational  rituals.  Jewelry  was  connected  with  spirituality  and typically revolved around the concept that souls or spirits exist in humans, as well as in animals, plants or inanimate objects. Ornaments became a celebration or an offering to a Spirit in nature that they considered a deity.

Copper , one of the earliest metals used by humans takes predominance in the collection. It is found in its purest forms in nature, a reason perhaps why it was discovered early and was used for  its  aesthetic  quality  to  create  ornaments  and  artefacts.    Suhani  employs  this  metal  as  her base, to connect and reclaim its original relevance.

The  ‘circle’  of  connection  forms  a  key  shape  in  the  collection  –  whether  it  appears  in  a  calm, clean spiral bangle or a fierce ‘spoke’ neckpiece .Coloured cord ‘coils’ bind the concept that all of nature is one.The  intertwined  trellised  vines,  flora  and  fauna  in  the  forest  inspired  motifs  emphasize  the forest dwellers’ belief that all life is intricately linked.
Primeval   art   drawings,   earthen   dwellings,   the   sun   and   moon   patterns   manifest   as   a representation  of  their  ancient  understanding  that  the  Earth,  nature  and  they  themselves  are part of a vast network of relationships.Acrylic  is  infused  as  an  almost  ‘aloof  and  distant’  element  to  signify  an  opposing  world disconnected from the earliest wisdom we all once had.

Ornaments:  hair  bands,  ‘borlas’,  ear  buttons,  ear  'kanautis',  necklaces,  belts,  cuffs,  bangles, armbands, anklets.

Moon Magic@Asmita Marwa

MOONMAGIC

There she stood, in the midst of the busy, starlit flea market... this beautiful gypsy woman bathed in moonlight. Every line on her face reflected deep thought, mystery and intensity, her expressive eyes telling you stories of her travels across oceans and boundaries. She
passed by me, caressing my thoughts and evoking a sense of awe for theextraordinary life she has lived.

Thus was born Moon Magic. Where I explore diverse prints, textures and fabrics reflecting the myriad cultures and places that she may have wandered to, in search of the true meaning of life. The dreamlike collage of Japanese floral prints, hand quilted patchwork jackets and old pieces of mirror-work are a tribute to the eclectic spirit of life. The recurring motif I have used – of the beautiful, earthy women that famous artist Vaikuntam breathed life into – celebrates womanhood. While the synergy of contrasting fabrics and materials,
creates the vibe of an urban gypsy.

Stitching together all of these thoughts is the embroidered "Aham Brahmasmi", the underlying belief of this collection. It means I am Brahman.... I am God... a part of the universal life force. This soulful collection is for the eternal wanderer and truth seeker that
exists in all of us…




Asmita Marwa is an Indian fashion designer, rated by Vogue as one of nine top up-and-coming international designers.

Marwa began designing clothes in Hyderabad in the 1990s. She was the first Hyderabad designer to enter the Telugu film industry. Numerous actors, including Nagarjuna, Balakrishna, Preity Zinta, Anjala Zaveri, Shriya, Mahesh Babu, Tabu, Asin, Charmy, and Anushka, have worn her clothes, in movies like Manmadhudu, Santhosham, Premante Idera, Arjun, Attadu, Pokiri, and Gharshana.
In December 2003 Marwa launched a fashion label, Asmita, sold through her signature store Reves d’Etoile and at "xlnc" in Hyderabad and "Aza" in Mumbai and Delhi. Marwa's designs for Asmita featured in the Blenders Pride Fashion Fringe Show in 2004. In 2008 She Took Part In The Lakme India Fashion Week.

Lakmé Fashion Week:March/April; 2008 The collection "Gaia-An Awakening" Fall Winter March 2009 'Maya and her Jaggery Knots' was Asmita Marwa's third collection, which combined diverse elements like Khadi, Antique Banaras, Tartan Checks, Telugu Calligraphy and giant roses.

For many years Marwah wrote a style column in the Hyderabad Times

Marwah is married to businessman Harvesh Marwah and has a son Karan Aryaman Marwaha.

http://www.asmitadesign.com

Sanchita Ajjampur's Fall Winter- 2013

Womenswear collection- Fall/Winter 13

 

An imaginary New World inspired by the Panchatantra Tales, where bejewelled monkeys, exotic flora and fauna are painted in a fantastic colour palette to accentuate the surrealistic quality of the collection.

 

 

Unconventional hand-painted florals from Indian mythology create a refined femininity, while the contrast of strong crystal edges adds a new three dimensionality to the luxe printed duchesse, satins and gossamer fabrics.

 

 

Tapered silhouettes offer the ultimate in luxury and curiosity, effortlessly blurring the line between day and evening wear.

 

 

Menswear collection-Fall/Winter 13

 

 

Sleek male grooming with a cultural and historical twist.

 

Camouflage prints in aviator and metallic shades imbue unexpected fabrics with a militant sensibility, subverting the traditional print through embellishment that mixes Indian military, mythology and textures to create the ultimate urban warrior.

 

Sanchita Ajjampur

Sanchita was born in Mumbai and moved to Europe at the age of three. Educated in Vienna and the UK, she studied art in Paris and earned her Fashion degree at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne. She specialised in fashion and industry at the Domus Academy, Milan, obtaining a Master's Degree in Fashion and Technology.  Having travelled and lived in Europe most of her life she speaks and writes also German, Italian and French, as well as colloquial Indian languages.

 

She returned to Italy to work with Romeo Gigli in the early 1990s, designing Callaghan then produced by Zamasport in Novara, and later collaborated with Moschino in Milan and with Tom Ford at Gucci in Florence and London. She has worked along side Lee Mc Queen for more than 10 years.  She has exhibited her "applied art" embellished works with artist Arianna Caroli in Rome and Chicago and with the late John Drake Moore in Venice and Delhi. In 2007, she worked on ‘Sanchita for Villa Moda’ with Villa Moda Kuwait and Dubai. In collaboration with Sheikh Majed Al Sabah, Jeff Koons, and Damien Hirst she worked on the project “sanchita for I love souk” for the Al Sabha Art and Design Gallery.

 

A few years ago, Sanchita saw the potential and opportunities for an Indian fashion brand with western influences and decided to return to India, choosing the city of Bangalore as her base. In partnership with her brother, she founded Sanfab Pvt. Ltd, the holding company of the sanchita brand, one of the first fashion companies in India to develop a European business model and technology-driven infrastructure. Anthropologie, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong, Evoluzione, Collage are some of the retail store that stock Sanchita. She is currently the Creative Director of the sanchita men’s, women’s and accessories collections and a creative consultant for Lanvin, Etro, Marni and other European luxury brands which are produced by sanfab.

 

Sanchita does her own research and development and has travelled the globe to study its ancient arts and crafts, especially India, where she learned about spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing techniques, and wooden-frame embroidery. In addition, she is a specialist in textiles and applied materials, which she also designs and patents. 

Sanchita Fables Book and the Fables collection was launched in 2010 and the Fables Cool Kids collection for Lane Crawford, Hong Kong in 2012. In 2012, a collaboration with Swarovski saw her exhibit sanchita leather accessories studded with Swarovski elements at the India International Leather Fair in Chennai. She was appointed the Chair Person for the Indo Italian Chambers of Commerce and Industries South Region in 2012.

 

The cultural experiences and influences of different places and peoples have left an indelible imprint on the designer’s creative spirit, infusing her designs with an innovative and eclectic favor. Stereotypical boundaries are broken down to focus on body shape, motion and functional ease in a mix of avant-garde forms and modular pieces that pay tribute to the femininity and grace, vulnerability and valour, dreams and desires of the modern woman.

 

'Humanoids' by Suman Nathwani-Autumn Winter 2013-14

Suman is a category innovator in terms of being India's first sleep wear designer and in counseling women who are recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures.  She has been actively interacting with women post the mastectomy procedure and has even counselled and helped in sourcing the correct prosthesis for post ops.

Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.

This season is particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW. The vibrant range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey.

The core inspiration for this collection is derived from romance and the harmonic connect between human and technology. From lines of aero dynamism . Reflectivity in surfaces and morphing of metal surfaces; a new romanticism is derived. This new world has a combination of futuristic elements; like hybridization of natural and mechanical products, geometrical shapes and surfaces in pure forms. In single term, the whole concept can be better termed as "humanoids".

This season is particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW . The vibrant range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey. The mood is nonchalantly playful and somewhat self-indulgent. The collection is targeted at the contemporary woman who dresses to reflect her own moods, rather than to please her man. Luxury is personal. Therefore, even lingerie is more streamlined and sexily comfortable, as opposed to restrictive styles that overtly dramatize the art of seduction. Anyway, romance is different these days; boudoirs and bedrooms are less about foreplay and ‘tease’, as more couples spend time with their beloved gadgets before saying good night. 

Suman Nathwani is no stranger to bedtime glamour and has single-handedly brought in the revolution of shaking and stirring mindsets and bringing to the fore the concept of designer lingerie and sleepwear in India. Innerwear, sleepwear- the brief and beautiful creations that are meant for bed and boudoir, are making a bold statement thanks to this modest designer from Kolkata.

Suman Nathwani's offers a repertoire of seductive pieces. So it's no wonder she has a loyal clientele, developed over two decades, and spread across the globe.

However, as a daily regimen, she innovates for the average Indian woman, in terms of the materials, delicate embellishments like lace and crystals, color palette, comfort, style and acceptability.

Her role as India's only intimate wear designer comes with an added responsibility of educating the masses about the benefits of wearing the correct innerwear and its physical, emotional and psychological impact.

Suman’s journey in last 2 decades has carved its way through conventional and couture dimensions of new creations in this field.

A regular contributor to prominent magazines and newspapers, Suman has recently started counseling women recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures. Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.

Suman Nathvani is a self made designer and has been designing since 1988. Her aim is to create a market in India for lingerie and sleepwear and convert this segment into a full fledged industry.

Suman, with her unique designing style was the first ever designer to display her sleepwear collection at the Wills India Fashion Week in 2006.