Wednesday, May 16, 2012

An Elsa Schiaparelli Pre-Frenzy Frenzy

The buyer who "sourced" these Elsa Schiaparelli originals for 1stdibs has chosen to remain anonymous. A wise move, considering the surrealist Italian designer is on the verge of a major moment as the subject—along with Miuccia Prada—of the Costume Institute's next fashion exhibit. Opening May 10, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada On Fashion follows the Met's blockbuster Alexander McQueen show last year. So, if your job was to collect white-hot 20th-century objets, would you want crazed fashion freaks knowing who you are?

Key pieces from the online sale of costume jewelry, accessories and sunglasses include: a compact in the shape of a telephone (1935) that still contains its original mirror and powder puff, part of a collaboration with Salvador Dali; a necklace made from gilded pine cones and velvet ribbon (1939); and a pair of ostrich clips from the circus collection designed by Jean Schlumberger for Schiaparelli (1938).
Online sale begins May 2 at

Wednesday, May 09, 2012

Diesel is the Target of a Malicious Spoofby

by Heather Corcoran

It’s known for outré advertising, but Diesel’s latest campaign seems to have taken its Live Stupid motto a little too seriously. A new website called Diesel for Women appears to be the latest in the Italian label's ongoing Successful Living campaign. But the proposed secret to success this time? Abortions.

The well-produced site imagines a world called Misopolis, where sex reigns free and female factory workers are given “the same rights as successful people.” The press release brings up legitimate women's issues (“[they're] marginalized, abused, raped, impoverished and exploited by the garment industry”) before veering into tastelessness (“we are giving them recognition, dignity, the right to have a safe abortion and fun”). That sentiment is echoed in over-the-top slogans: "Abortion Pill, A Gift from God," "Immaculate Contraception," and "Say Goodbye to Coat Hangers."
Fashion’s politics have always leaned left, but this is not your average pro-choice message. In fact, the ads are not real, according to a Diesel spokesperson, who tells the Huffington Post, "We will ensure all steps are taken to hold the person(s) accountable for this fake campaign activity."
Though no one is claiming responsibility yet, Twitter users have collectively determined the campaign was created by the Amsterdam-based Women on Waves. The pro-choice group apparently believes that, in their opposition to abstinence-only education, it's okay to make light of a traumatic experience for millions.


After sending shockwaves through the blogosphere and bitter condemnation from Diesel, it turns out the Diesel for Women site is indeed a spoof started by Women on Waves. The Dutch non-profit issued a letter explaining that they, along with the activist group Yes Men, “designed the hoax to expose the violations of women’s rights that take place in the garment industry.”
But why pose as Diesel? The organization cites the 2011 report “Captured by Cotton” which claims that companies such as Diesel exploit garment workers hired by subcontractors through the “sumangali scheme,” forcing women to work for years in anticipation of a lump-sum payment. The ad’s faux-factory, with its abundant abortion-related imagery, was intended to point out that many garment factory workers (75 – 90% of whom are women, average age 19) face unsafe conditions, rampant sexual harassment, poor healthcare and no maternity leave. Many of these factories are located in countries where abortion is illegal. Women on Waves is campaigning to make medical abortion available to women all over the world. May we recommend

Friday, May 04, 2012

B&B-Fashion Tradeshow>Summer 4-6 July 2012-TheRock

The 26th BREAD & BUTTER – tradeshow for selected brands again exceeds the high expectations of the international textile industry: with the sixth event on the historic Airport Berlin-Tempelhof, the strongest result since the return to Berlin could be recorded.

The mood was excellent throughout the three days of event, despite the difficult economic circumstances, following the motto: NOW MORE THAN EVER! The absolute numbers prove an unbroken high internationality in the trade visitor structure, and remarkably more German visitors came to Berlin-Tempelhof.

Karl-Heinz Müller, Managing Director BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG: "Berlin has once more proofed and further established itself as one of the world's most important fashion metropolises. The run on Berlin has not stopped. The versatility of the different events is an essential part of this. It was the strongest BREAD & BUTTER since the return to Berlin in summer 2009. Especially the results in the Urban Superior and L.O.C.K.  – Labels of Common Kin areas exceeded the expectations of the exhibiting brands and labels. Our exhibitors have showed themselves in the best colours. We thank all those involved for their great commitment."

Last Tuesday night the order round A/W 2012/2013 kicked off with the traditional B&B Opening Party that welcomed approx. 3,500 guests. The "HIGH FIDELITY: prepare for a strong winter" campaign ideally reflected the three tradeshow days – the international textile industry in the Urban Casualwear segment is optimally prepared and equipped for the upcoming winter. All eight hangars and the gates of the historical airport Berlin-Tempelhof were fully occupied with ca. 640 exhibitors, and could register a constantly strong frequency – especially the new TREASURY area and the expansions FIRE DEPT. at L.O.C.K. and D.O.C.K.  – Department of Contemporary Keynotes at SPORT & STREET enjoyed great popularity. The once again perfect organization of the event and the personal support of the guests before and during BREAD & BUTTER were particularly praised.

Compared to a very high level of the last winter event in January 2011, BREAD & BUTTER could once again increase its visitor numbers by 3.5 %. Despite the high internationality in the whole visitor structure, more German visitors came to Berlin-Tempelhof.

A significant increase in visitors from all Scandinavian countries, especially from Sweden and Denmark, could be registered. There were more visitors from the Netherlands, and also Swiss and Austrian visitors attended in higher numbers.

Visitor numbers from Great Britain/ Ireland and France were high and stable as usual. Also, trade visitors from the US, Canada, Brazil, India, China, South Korea, Japan and Australia were well represented. A significant increase from "Far East" could be registered. From Eastern European countries and Russia, BREAD & BUTTER could also register good increases. The expected decrease in visitor numbers from Italy, Spain and Greece was not very remarkable.

Ca. 92,500 tickets were sent out to industry professionals, relevant buyers and trade visitors before the event.

Karl-Heinz Müller: "It is good and only natural if even more takes place in Berlin – in the end, success attracts. However, it is important that every format has its own theme, so that existing, successful events are not cannibalized.  I am afraid that the buyer does not really know anymore where to find what. I have visited the Show & Order, founded by my former employee Verena Malta. She has done a very good job: great location, good brand portfolio, very beautiful presentation and a lot of love for detail. But: in my opinion, Berlin cannot be managed in three days. The events have to split up better, e.g. from Tuesday to Saturday, this would mean five days. Berlin needs a real week of fashion!"

Corresponding to the strong development of the "Dressed up" fashion segment, the URBAN SUPERIOR area will be further extended for the upcoming event in summer 2012. Through the docking of pavilions to the exterior of the hangars, similar to the Denim Base, the area will be extended with stand space of ca. 3,000 – 4,000 sqm. Furthermore, BREAD & BUTTER will continue to expand the accessory area TREASURY, following its enormous initial success.

Karl-Heinz Müller: "In summer 2012, BREAD & BUTTER will take place from 4 - 6 July under the motto THE ROCK: the campaign is centered around the rock, symbol of stability and immovability, reflecting the strength of character and constancy of BREAD & BUTTER – tradeshow for selected brands."

B&B Press Conference Tuesday, 3 July 2012, starting 4:30 p.m.
B&B Opening Party 
 Tuesday, 3 July 2012, starting 7:00 p.m.
 Wednesday to Friday, 4 to 6 July 2012

Thursday, May 03, 2012

Hedi Slimane at MOCA

by Yasha Wallin

While it's becoming more common for the work of fashion designers to be featured in the rooms of major art museums, the aim of Hedi Slimane's upcoming show, California Song, at MOCA's Pacific Design Center is to celebrate the former Dior Homme designer's other passion, photography.
Opening November 12, the two-floor exhibition will feature the French photographer's portraits of California's youth culture. Through his use of black and white film, Slimane reveals a less romanticized vision of the Golden State, capturing the honest, complex mood of his subjects—brooding yet idealistic, casual yet sincere, engaged yet restless.

Portraits, publications and ephemera will be on display on the first floor, and on the second, a motion-photography installation that will include live performances by local bands like No Age. Slimane, you'll recall, is fascinated with rock musicians and concert culture—the sweat, the ritual, the idolatry—and you'll get a lot of it in this show.