Friday, August 23, 2013

KRUHUN by Shantanu Goenka

KRUHUN meaning black in Kashmiri casts an enchanting spell on the collection
Dipped in gold and black every ensemble is a story on its own with a unique individuality and personality

The collection brings out the best from my embroidery archives . Impeccable sequinned sheeting ,age old extremely fine and delicate zardozi and eye twitching kashmiri tilli holds the collection together.

Apart from these ,laser cut appliqué ,textured brocades ,velvets and sequinned cut work gives a  different dimension to the collection.

An eclectic mix of men's and women's wear the collection draws inspiration from old india, Persia and middle eastern influences.

Flowy anarkalis , asymmetrical jackets , Farshi pyjamas  and beautifully embroidered sarees dominate the women's wear silhouettes whereas the menswear mainly consist of transparent chogas worn over fluid pyjamas, jodhpuris, waistcoats etc. interesting printed swimwear worn under embroidered transparent folwy kaftans adds the diva essence to the look.

Animal skin and lotuses are combined together in prints whereas falcons ,parrots and peacocks motifs gives an interesting character to the embroideries.

Heena bodysuits underlayered with every ensemble is the perfect accent bringing out the strong Indian and middle eastern culture. Edgy hair accessories like flying parrots , udan khatola hair pins and celestial bun studs adds another story .....

Velvet footwear for both men and women again in black and gold encrusted with fine gold zardozi complements the look and the elephant heels takes the footwear to the next level. Jingling anklets , jewellery straps, buckles, broaches and armband attachments provide the perfect accessorization to the ensembles .

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Fashion meets Music - Aarti Vijay Gupta

Presenting an inseparable amalgamation of Music and Fashion – ‘I love music’. Aarti’s collection has been inspired by the four families of symphony orchestra: String , Woodwind, Brass & Percussion. 

Revealing her keen sense of innovation fused with her contemporary expression which sets her apart. Her design philosophy is simple, interweaved with artistic strokes on a structured canvas. 

Talking about her collection, Designer says, “I take inspiration from the things around me that I love. I am passionate about both music and fashion. It was a natural progression of the combining power of the two to create something very unique and extraordinary.”

Fashion and music have always intermingled to create history & played their part in giving birth to iconic styles. Fashion has always followed music and music has always followed fashion. With her latest collection, Aarti presents a tribute to music with the élan of fashion. Taking inspiration from music & the symphony orchestra, Aarti has experiments with musical notes and instruments like trumpets, saxophones, violin, bass drum in form of prints on structured silhouettes. Set in printed overlap jumpsuits, bolero jackets, trench coats, short sheath dresses, she has highlighted the association of music on a style blueprint. 


The Collection has been inspired by architectural works of world renowned architect Zaha Hadid. Her buildings are distinctively futuristic, characterized by the powerful, curving forms of her elongated structures with multiple perspective points and fragmented geometry to evoke the chaos of modern life. The textures in garment represent the same. Works of Zaha Hadid also inspires the colors in garment.

mapxencaRS is a high end designer brand that makes custom made women and menswear. The style of brand is western which aims at making structured & conceptualized garments with touch of futuristic elements in it.


Dame Zaha Mohammad Hadid
, ( زها حديدZahā Ḥadīd; born 31 October 1950) is an Iraqi-British Architect. She received the Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2004—the first woman to do so—and the Stirling Prize in 2010 and 2011. Her buildings are distinctively futuristic, characterized by the "powerful, curving forms of her elongated structures" with "multiple perspective points and fragmented geometry to evoke the chaos of modern life".

AFTERMATH by Sidharta Aryan

“Borne out of love lost lament and candid fear for the uncertain AFTERMATH W/F 2013 is a collection that resonates life and the patterns of a jaded mind. Torn apart between conventions and following one’s dreams, the collection is inspired by this duality. It seeks imagery from Geode inspired elemental – Geometry.”

The dichotomy of cultures that is now the truth of our urban existence controls the outcome of this collection paving the way for a sport-deluxe line that can effortlessly make the transition from work wear to evening wear form 'The Look'.

Taking hints from science and technology, the digital print captures order and symmetry coexisting with chaos and fear. Sci-fi geometric stone-embellishments and faux leather quilting, way-ward hemlines, cut-out necklines, sheer body blocking, trompe l’oeil effects, and other such details make up for this sports-lux collection - all put together as the Key Detailings.

Sports mesh, Luxury nylon jersey all trickling down from street sport style are used as bases for digital printing. With emphasis on luxury and comfort I have continued to use silks, velvets, satins, georgette, and chiffon etc. “A jaded heart in an urban jungle” describes the colour palette for the season with shades of grey, black & white and accents of neon green.

‘Sidharta Aryan’ the label was launched at LFW ‘Gen Next’ - Winter/Festive 2010.
Through his work, Designer strives to break the conformist ways in which the Indian woman is globally perceived today. Woman who is fearless and definitely a Fashion Leader. Creating clothes that are objects of art, and hope that they find a home where they will be treated like they would be in a museum.

Label is at a threshold of carving a niche for itself in the industry, which is slowly but surely opening up to embracing creative and out-of-the box design. With a visionary approach I take inspiration from the stalwarts of the design community who continue to inspire me daily to create a timeless collection! - Nurturing me to reach my goals and dreams.

Let's DRESS UP' by Troy Costa


TROY COSTA, revives the Charm of the 1930’s through a collection that’s luxurious, elevating the casual with expert tailoring in iconic British influenced fabrics.

Inspiration for one half of the collection stems from a Mark Gertler painting titled the ‘Merry Go Round ‘, which refer to the colors in contemporary menswear fashion.

The collection is beyond classification and acquires personality & character thanks to the marriage of tailored shaping & discreetly using technology to inject modern verve through special ideas such as waterproof thread, alternation & color intarsia.

The overall silhouette is relaxed and boasts of tailored separates, perfect for the modern mans wardrobe .

On the other end of the spectrum, drawing influences from the league of Gentlemen of the 30’s & 40’s; Beautifully constructed suits are presented, they are figure enhancing & very sensual , thus  respectfully offering  a return to the reinvention of classic menswear & the lifestyle which accompanies it .

A sartorial elegance is interpreted in the single and double breasted slim fit  jackets  and classy retro suits .

It appears as though heritage has been picked up and dusted, refined & brought up to date.

There is a definite element of GATSBY- ESQUE tailoring combined with skinny Trousers & Ties to turn heads & melt hearts

 Accessories pay homage to urban functionality; city or utility bags ,folders , ultra light clutches ,multi-use scarves ,  document holders in glossy hues , Brogues , spectators, tuxedo slippers , tasseled , toggled moccasins & brogue'd wedges complete the collection that is staked on comfort without abandoning the dictates of elegance …Focus is on the SAUNTER which involves dressing in your finest clothes & indulging in extended relaxed walks.

Bohemian? hippy? sartorial?dandy ? regardless of what you wish to call a man who wears bold, flower prints for Spring Summer 2014 , there’s is only one way to call him… ‘FASHIONABLE ‘.

 The TROY COSTA man is one who likes to behave with good manners & dress well , strong yet sensitive , classic but not too formal , he’s a man who wishes to be classless & stylish but with substance .

After all ,


The Menswear colors for spring emphasize the need for balance with soothing neutrals , accented by an array of energizing lights.

MONACO BLUE naturally lends an air of masculinity, providing stability and depth, LINEN with its off white complexion is a flattering hue & pairs well with other many colors .Dynamic & exciting POPPY RED plays a vital role in men’s fashion trends for Spring Summer.Vibrant ORANGE , an animated striking hue provides vigor & enthusiasm .YELLOW offers an earthy Dijon like flavor that ,when combined with Monaco blue credits a sophisticated update to a familiar combination .

More Info*

Mark Gertler, Merry-go-round (1916)
Considered by many art critics as the most important British painting of the war, Merry-Go-round, shows a group of military and civilian figures caught on the vicious circle of the roundabout.
What do you normally think of when you think about going to a fair or carnival? Fun? Excitement? Fear, maybe? Gertler imagined this carousel as a scary place to be. The people look very stiff, they might be screaming and there doesn’t look like a way to get off the ride. They might be stuck on there. Forever.

Gertler painted this picture during the First World War and may have been influenced by a fair for injured soliders that took place in large park near his home in London.

Are there any rides you are scared of at the fair? What is your favourite ride? If you could create a scary ride, what would be on it, and what would happen if someone rode it?

Wednesday, August 07, 2013

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring 2014 Men's

Video Fix:

Ready for some intense social commentary with your fashion films? Look no further than Meadham Kirchhoff's new video, showcasing the colorful clogs, latex raincoats, and florals and ginghams of the London duo's spring 2014 men's collections, "I Do Nothing," mixed with scenes of war, destruction, and torch-wielding mobs. Directed by Sharna Osborne and shown prior to the runway show in June, the film shows bits of footage from various conflict zones in Europe, intended to convey the eternal struggle between individuality and conformity, David and Goliath, small clothing label and big fashion machine...

Artist Martín Gutierrez on "Sex Dolls, YSL, and Celebrity Crushes"!

Meet Martín, new androgyne on the scene. Martín (pronounced Marteen) is spicing things up at Ryan Lee gallery with a series of portraits of the artist — whose full name, Martín Gutierrez, implies another layer of social commentary — as blow-up sex dolls. The show is both creepy and sublime, partly because it's hard to believe that these veristic, voyeuristic dolls are not plastic, but Martín in the flesh, whose poses in lush architectural settings are both suggestive and mundane. It's as if the dolls had just been used and discarded, either left on the bed, slumped in a chair, or hastily stuffed back into a cellophane bag.
Martín also makes music, hauntingly beautiful songs that call to mind Amy Winehouse's throaty voice crossed with the lyrical gravitas of Antony Hegarty. The videos for these songs — in fact all of Martín's work — are created entirely by the artist, not just the writing, but also the directing, producing, styling, and shooting. And then there are the collaborations with fashion houses, like YSL, who chose Martín's first unreleased single, Hands Up, for their cruise 2012 video editorial, followed by Dior and Acne. Martín’s first EP is set to be released later this year. 

Here, the artist sheds light, and shading, on the many faces of Martín...

You work in a wide range of media, from photography and video to music and performance. In an industry that craves categorization, how do you fit in? Or is that the point — you don't?

I would call myself a performance-based artist. I think the title lends me the most freedom to cross between mediums. We don’t have much choice in how we are perceived by others. Perception is a powerful dynamic I have learned to bend in my work, through personal trials and conflicts throughout my life. The freedom of individuality that the art community celebrates is my reasoning for gravitating towards it. 

Your video series — Martin(e) 1, 2 and 3 — are very focused on interior spaces and architecture. How intentional is this?

It is difficult for me not to respond to architectural space. I have always been attracted to buildings that hold iconic history, especially classical architecture, but perhaps this has something to do with the fact that both my parents practice architecture and I grew up keenly aware of the built environment.

There is a solitary, self-reflective vibe in the videos, recalling Tilda Swinton in I Am Love or even Cindy Sherman's self-portraits. Are those accurate comparisons?

It is a privilege to be compared to such established artists. Both Swinton and Sherman share my investment in exploring personal transformation. More importantly, Tilda Swinton is also on my celebrity crush list.

There is a repeated refrain in the video series: "It was almost impossible to think of anything else." What is the significance?

The phrase has multiple meanings for me, both positive and negative. For example, finding the dichotomy of meticulous details around you both exhausting and inspiring. 

Are the pencil mustache and the inclusion of "(e)" at the end of Martin(e) comments on gender roles and heteronormativity?

It is perhaps a more convoluted story. There is undoubtedly a cosmetic identity applied to the character of Martin(e), but the videos are also an idealized way of projecting myself. Because my name is Spanish, written with an accent over the "i," it is pronounced Mar-TEEN, even though it looks like Martin. Another common mistake is when I say Mar-TEEN, people often write it as "Martine." I honestly couldn't care less how people spell my name as long as they pronounce it correctly, but it is always confusing when someone thinks I am a French girl and finds a Spanish boy.

Tell us about your work in fashion. How did you end up providing music for brands
such as YSL, Dior and ACNE?

My liaisons with the fashion houses all started with YSL. After casually sharing an unreleased song with a few friends, the music made its way to France and was part of the playlist during the filming of the 2012 YSL Cruise Collection. A few days later, I received a call from Paris asking to collaborate. The others followed.

How has your work with these brands shaped your music?

If anything, it has shown me that there is something in my music that resonates in fashion. For sure, luxury is now a part of my vocabulary in the making of music.

What's your take on the recent phenomenon of androgynous or transsexual models?

A sister to the arts, the fashion world is always looking to push the limits. I think it is brilliant that beauties like Andrej Pejic and Lea T. are idolized and acknowledged globally. I look forward to the day when the transsexual community is seen as normative by the masses.

You're releasing an EP later this year. What can we expect?

It’s a very dark and romantic collection of songs.  My time in Central America and on the beach by my father’s property in Guatemala inspires the tempo of the EP.  If you can imagine heartbreak in a bottle floating through the Caribbean Sea, it sounds like that.

How did you come up with the concept of posing as sex dolls in your ‘Real Dolls’ photo series?

Since childhood I have been intrigued with dolls. After learning about the Real Doll phenomenon, life-size fetish sex dolls, I continued to research them. It was a spontaneous decision to make work about them, one I never thought I would show publicly.

I'm glad you did. Who's your favorite character: Luxx, Mimi, Ebony, or Raquel? Do you relate to them on a personal level?

It is dangerous to pick a favorite. I relate to the Dolls just as much as I relate to the fictionalized men I imagine to have bought, dressed, and cared for each of them. The process proved to be uncomfortable in every meaning of the word.

The series is impeccably styled. What influence has fashion and magazines had on your work?

Haute couture in my mother’s Vogue was my first interaction with fine art. My early knowledge of art being ancient artifacts made fashion so much more exciting. Call it drag or dress up, the play of costume is empowering and will always influence my art-making. 

What's the most luxurious piece of clothing in your closet?

It's a toss up, but I have a long rabbit fur dress dyed to look like tiger that is quite a showstopper. I came across it in a thrift store in San Francisco and didn't even know it was real fur because it was such a bargain.

Caught My Eye, exclusively for Hint

We're thrilled you've created an exclusive video for Hint, Caught My Eye. It's a very voyeuristic and seductive piece. Can you clue us into your inspiration?

Drawn to distortion and ambiguity, I made Caught My Eye to exist as a backdrop for the music featured in the piece, with both its characters and their relationship open to interpretation.

Has anyone told you that you sound like Amy Winehouse?

I shy away from comparisons, but I am hands-down a fan. I started listening to her when I heard Mark Ronson was producing Back to Black. Love him.

What's next for you?

I am in the midst of beginning a new artistic endeavor, but hesitant to say any more. All I can say at this point is, I am looking for some new wigs.