Friday, March 24, 2017

T H E C U B I S T R O S E - Schulen Fernandes for Wendell Rodricks

Inspiration? Not really. "The coincidence is just a stroke of creative forces" says' Wendell Rodricks

"Cuekee"; that's what they call me. Cucumber Cool before a show...always. #TheCubistRose rehearsal a half hour away and yours truly a sea of calm in a frenetic fashion place. - WR

Schulen Fernandes presents The Cubist Rose for Wendell Rodricks in a path breaking collection that celebrates the rose in a new cubist avatar. In a symphony of reds, oranges, pinks and purples off set with teal green, nude peach and pale blue, The Cubist Rose cuts a striking colour palette for autumn winter. At the core of the collection is not just a rose but the various interpretations in cut metallic leather, layered organza, floating georgette, satin silk, structured cotton satin, silken linen, Bemberg slub weave, poly crinkle and lush pashmina wool. The garments reflect the art of Cubism in keeping with the geometric philosophy of Wendell Rodricks. To this minimalist design statement, Schulen brings to the collection an infusion of youth and modernity in a worthy successor interpretation. Playing volume against slim silhouettes, structured forms with fluid flow and layering with lined garments, the entire collection is subtly infused with rose gold and silver accents. Innovations in design include jacket dresses, Cubist petal collars, 3D elevated leather cutwork, Harlequin technicolour blocking, angled silhouettes and hems. 

The Cubist jewellery/earings by Ayesha Accessories. Schulen Fernandes fuchsia and gold with purple heels, made by Stoffa Hersh Kolecha, Schulen Fernandes hand made the neck piece, Ambika Pillai makeup and hair 

This is Schulen Fernandes' second collection for the Wendell Rodricks label. As Creative Head, Schulen brings a refreshing creative expression to the two and a half decade old label from Goa. With The Cubist Rose, Schulen Fernandes proves a worthy successor to Wendell Rodricks and a formidable talent in her own right. 

The Cubist Rose collection by Schulen Fernandes for Wendell Rodricks unveiled at

Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017/2018  on 17th March at New Delhi.



BEAUTY in itself is fragile. Something that is present and absent at the same time. A thought which one feels, that makes one react to itself while being seen through different hues. This world is in a state of chaos, where Beauty, in its truest sense is losing itself in the void. People are losing their homes, hopes, dreams. Regions are losing generations after generations to this outbreak and Beauty is being replaced by agony, despair and dead outcomes. It is the pathway between Beauty and the Dead that has been highlighted.

Dev r Nil's "The Valley of Missing Flowers" collection inspired by the picturesque - Conflict zones & the violence. Fraught with fragments of personal history, series is a revelation of the intimate stories that lie between the lines of conflict in one of the most violently contested regions in the world. - deeply evocative, powerful and persistent.

Treating its audience with different looks that included stripes, simple stripes, ikat feathers, metallics and meadows, 3D floral appliqué details and together made an exceptional combination. Shimmering zip down jackets with saris were seen on models walking the ramp. A black sheer outfit with a monochrome print lining and sequel detailing along with basic silhouettes, including shararas, kurtas, capes, kimonos, bandgalas, striped handloomed saris, trousers in hand and shaded machine embroidery, dominated with floral patterns with geometric lines and flower prints featuring embroidery.

Designs and surface embellishments inspired from the valley, enhanced by the surface details that were styled in a structured manner, contrasting with the fluidity of the silk, tissue and organza fabrics.

In colour range from Eckru to somber greys , muted greens to dusty blues contrasted with sudden hints of midnight blues ,reds and lime greens, almost as if hinting towards the bloom of an everlasting apriori state of Hope in the middle of hopelessness.

When violence becomes the only constant
The generations are lost
The flower gardens freeze…
It's white everywhere
The blanket of snow on a never-ending graveyard…
The spring which never came..
The flowers died before they bloomed…

"SUMMER RESORT 2017" Inspired by the works of Bharat Sikka on life and the aftermath of destruction in places where once beauty prevailed, where purity and serenity glowed brightly, aims to highlight this spectrum between the two gradients of Beauty and the Dead, in the hope that the natural priorities of the Human Soul be realized and treated in a manner ,as fragile as they are. Because, Beauty is fragile, Beauty is Omnipresent, Omniscient, Omnipotent.

In parts delicate and feminine;(frozen or dried in places) to be juxtaposed by the contrasting military like/ inspired styles. Fluidity is contrasted by the severity of structure. Using couture techniques in most part of the collection this collection is primarily targeted towards the Spring Summer couture and diffusion range.
The journey between two states of Being has been represented through the texture and prints showcased. The floral patterns lead into more rigid geometric lines. Likewise, floral prints and embroideries can be seen changing into more geometric printed curves and embroideries. Delicate thread work has been made to merge into more stark metallic shine, whereas glass pipe embroidery simultaneously has been used with the cutwork and appliqué to carefully show a contrast.