Philip Treacy
Michael Jackson's actual Thriller jacket with a smiley-face hat? Yeah, that happened at Philip Treacy's phenomenal collection tonight—his first show in London since 1999—as did a hat modeled on the Neverland ranch, complete with a miniature carousel, and a Swarovski-encrusted creation resembling a sparkling white glove. Treacy's trademark feather headdresses were also on show, as well as fantastic experiments with light, including one that covered the model's body entirely like a Christmas Tree.
This was as much a rousing retrospective of Jackson's stage outfits by his longtime co-designers Michael Bush and Dennis Tompkins as it was a millinery collection inspired by said outfits. Piling up the tributes further, Treacy dedicated the show to his late friends Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen. Not one to miss a spectacle, Lady Gaga served as mistress of ceremonies, decked out in a floor-length pink veil and McQueen's Armadillo shoes as she introduced "the greatest milliner of all time."
It's been 60 years since Chloé's fateful debut collection at Le Café de Flore, a Rive Gauche favorite among artists and boho young things whose laissez-faire spirit came to define the label. On Friday, Chloé celebrated six decades in a diamond jubilee of historic proportions (because why should the Queen of England have all the fun?).
Historic, because the house's Egyptian founder, Gaby Aghion, made a rare public appearance. Surprisingly charismatic, even at 91, she held court in the newly renovated Palais de Tokyo as guests including Karl Lagerfeld, Carine Roitfeld, Franca Sozzani, Jonathan Newhouse and Emmanuelle Alt paid their respects, to the tunes of Little Boots and Cecile Cassel & The Twins.
The celebration also served to launch Chloé Attitudes, a retrospective consisting of 70 signature looks over the years. On display are archival pieces from each of Chloé's nine designers, starting with Gaby Aghion and continuing through Maxime de La Falaise, Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, and, currently, Clare Waight Keller.
We caught up with curator Judith Clark, who told us, "A lot of this is being put together for the first time, so sometimes I have been the first person to see drawings, documents, and cuttings. What people underestimate about Chloé is how witty the designs have always been, how whimsical, and still exist in the same spirit."
Glance Deco
FW 2012 -13Zora & Neva Emanuela Naccarati
Inspiration for the Deco demi-couture collection of 18 pieces submitted for the coming winter by the young designer Emanuela Naccarati.
The Heads, limited edition characterized by processes and dyes made by hand, are the result of meticulous workmanship and craftsmanship, use of materials absolutely natural and historical, the result of meticulous research into the archives of companies of Italian textiles.
The Outerwear have basic volumes, they become armor, imposing high shoulders clamshell; pants follow clean lines in fabrics complete male (cashmere, wool / cashmere and pure wool 120's of national production) blouses in bourette of hand-dyed silk are limited edition, as well as the shirts in pure silk.
For the evening, faithful to the call Deco 30s, feminine imagery of Lucien Lelong and that of the photographer Hoyningen Huene clothes made with Indian saree because optical are also unique in shape, color and imagination: geometric hours, playing with contrasts of colors, effects light / dark texture of hypnotic, sensual hours as in the one-shoulder neckline or V neckline down to the waist and reminiscent of the volumes of the creations of Jeanne Lanvin and Madeleine Vionnet.
A sound installation space and welcome guests into space lab designer. The work is the result of research and cultural craft designer who explores his collection with the sophisticated models and curvy fashion 30's, the elegance of the voltage architectural and structural forms of outerwear, and the renewed interest in heritage traditional Italian craftsmanship. Skilled hands working tissues, selected from the archives of famous Italian companies, according to the dictates of craftsmanship and design research.
EMANUELA Naccarati
BIOGRAPHY
Emanuela Naccarati is a designer from Puglia who lives and works in Rome.
Thanks to the passion passed on from parents, drapers high fashion, milliner and grandmother, decides to undertake an artistic career, graduating the Academy of Costume and Fashion in Rome, the most prestigious school in the Italian context.
While studying, he worked for small local productions. Then he won an internship at a prestigious costume workshop and begins his experience in the world of theater and cinema.
First as an assistant, then as a costume designer, accumulates eighteen years of experience in the world of opera and drama, cinema vintage and contemporary work in national and international productions.
Has no way of knowing that the "dress" in every facet: construction, functionality, workmanship and aesthetic experience without which the project would never come to a personal brand, zora & neva.
zora & neva for Emanuela is not a change, but an evolution dictated by the desire for uniqueness: each dress has its own history and its own path and she goes in search.
The brand was created to meet the curious spirits looking fabric in the shape and processing, hidden messages from the past: the experience lives on in new forms.
The search for materials, dyes craft and the geometric rigor of forms are witnesses of a style "unique" and timeless, which escapes from today's dynamic business by making his work a collection continuous.
Glance Deco made his debut with the desire to reflect the artistic imagination of Emanuela, collecting the essential points of its formation: the dress is research, construction, detail and aesthetics.
