Friday, April 02, 2010

Designers @ WIFW AW March 2010

The Krishna In Me- Joy Mitra

If there ever is a God I could talk to, confide in, flirt with, play pranks on or just take that mystical walk down the river bed with, it is Banke (Dandy) Bihari….Lord Krishna. The God for the contemporary human .One who speaks the language you and I understand.

His wrath I fear not. His eklavya (precise eye) only bestows on me love and an understanding that even when I err I am pardoned. Even when I connive I am respected for being one with the race called life. Lord Krishna is the God for today. The mystical magician who through his Geeta Saar tells each one of us to be a flesh and blood person.

Holi for him denotes forgetting the past ‘Ho li’….Let bygones be bygones. He asks you to hone your killer instinct and like his pet disciple Arjuna aim for the fisheye, whatever it might be for you. Even if it is as idyllic as sitting by the ghats and singing in his praise. Madhav will tell you to sing with your soul and allow God to echo in your voice.

Love for him is Radha, not wife, mother or sister…..just that ideal companion who dares to love you. Unabashedly. Fable has it that even today ,every full moon the Radha –Madhav Mandir in Mathura comes alive with their raas….No human is allowed to spend the night inside this temple which remains their eternal love nest Those who did returned the next morn blinded….with their love.

His disciples are Karmic people….simple souls who allow their work to speak .They envelop themselves with seamless love and positive energies. Anyone emanating negative energy is cut off, amputated from their existence. The Lord is a friend and he tells you not to harm others but most importantly never allow others to harm you…..

The lord is me and I am the Lord….And my fashion this year simply creates cameos of real people enveloped in the aura of his mystical love. Secure in love, floating in bliss yet with feet that are firmly on the ground always.….. Because the Dandy Dev I love tells me to live it up!

Nandita Mahtani

In her debut show at WIFW on March 28th, 2010, Designer Nandita Mahtani showcased an eveningwear resort line , easy fashion in simple basic cuts that will appeal to women of all ages, clothes that are dreamy, romantic yet with a strong sense of drama.

The holiday collection is in neutrals restricting the fabrics to georgettes, chiffons, lycras and knits with a creation of an unexpected print mixing bandhani with butterflies. Keeping a firm grip on the color story with shades such as black, olive, brown, tan, skin and a dash of white, the collection teams sensuality with its characteristic pretty look. Focusing on feminine cuts, embellished with lots of sequin sheeting, chains, chain mails, stones, rivets which lend an edgy appeal, the ultra glam evening section has an assortment of dresses, very short skirts, hot pants, vests, jackets as well as flowy long dresses.

For the designers loyalists signature pieces in newer versions do crop up which Nandita maintains are their best sellers. The trade mark kurtis, which are still famous in London are presented in a variety of shades with thread and metallic work. Mixed sheer sexy printed dresses underlines her never ending romance with Bohemia

Says Nandita Mahtani, “ The line spells metallics and military chic as a huge trend. Dark edgy and tailored looks speckled with simple sexy flowy silhouettes make this an unusual symphony. The idea is to offset sexy dresses with a dash of the unexpected and have fun with fashion and accessories. Statement pieces, which make every woman, feel like a diva. ”

A combination of contrasts Nandita’s line combines hard rock with lady like mode. Sophistication and glamour is the mainstay of the designer’s collection.

SWAPAN & SEEMA - A Certain Splendour

Swapan and Seema successfully meet the challenges of the new season with their collection titled ‘A Certain Splendour’. Aimed at the contemporary woman who seeks to combine spontaneity and luxury in her choices-this collection is fresh and innovative. It highlights the opulent and detailed embroidery which is a feature of Indian craftsmanship. The collection appeals to contemporary taste with its startling and innovative colour palette. This season is about nurturing the mysterious, romantic and extravagant side of women.

The silhouettes are versatile-modern interpretations of the unstructured, billowing as well as those that show off the voluptuous feminine shape. There is a profusion of the damask pattern-the embroidery is delicate and modern. The floral motifs offset the glamorous tilt of the collection. Fabrics like silk, chiffon and satin contribute to the sense of luxuriousness that this label is famous for. Sparkling zardosi work, metallic finishes and flashes of saturated hues make this is a memorable collection. Greys, blacks corals and rust dominate and also the softer beige and brown.

Swapan and Seema have explored their strengths very skillfully in this collection. It presents a whole range of sartorial choices for the contemporary Indian woman from casual Western wear to Indian bridal wear –kurtas, lehengas, saris and long dresses. The regal fabrics, playful motifs and glamorous details all promise to bring to women what they all crave-‘A Certain Splendour’

The Rainbow Totem - Little Shilpa

In an imaginary process .. crossing borders between art and fashion.. looking forward collectively unconscious of our time.. this super colorful collection alerts us to the beginning of a spiritual war..

Perspex reveals and filters light that meets feathers .. we see The Rainbow Totem
As Mohawks, spirits of lights, are eating our mind.. and colored spectrum are wrapping our bodies ..

fluorescent armors appear : visors , masks . cuffs , neck-pieces , shoulder-pieces .. all haunted by forest ghosts willing to show their soul

We, mutants, go around the city and invade the spaces

The tribes are here ..
Time has come..

Anatolia by Rehane
"It is more than just coincidence that every time I go to the sketch-pad for my Autumn/Winter collections my inspiration comes from the cultural roots of various cities across the globe. This time’s collection for WIFW Autumn/Winter 2010 has been inspired by all things ‘Asia Minor’. The collection is called ‘ANATOLIA’ which is a geographic and historical term denoting the westernmost protrusion of Asia, comprising about two-thirds of the modern Republic of Turkey.”

The silhouette is in keeping with modernity, yet there are opulent excesses seen throughout the collection in one form or another. The look is Bold & Without fear, which is truly Rehane’s signature, with Dollops of the exotic & mysterious. A modern day ‘Sherzade’ would perhaps be the best Muse for Anatolia.

Rehane adds, “Without culture, and the relative freedom it implies, society, even when perfect, is but a jungle. This is why any authentic creation is a gift to the future. And to a great extend this is why I love to see my collection to be worn by musicians, poets, authors, artists and all creative people! All of us have a creative streak; some know it and some use it successfully.”

The colors used for the ANATOLIA collection are Snuff, Poppy, Salmon, Deep Aqua, Turkish blue and Antique Gold. The cuts are very structured yet complimenting the female silhouette. The fabrics used vary from Jacquard to Satin and Velvet to Georgettes.

Poonam Bhagat - Abstract Expressionism

In the first seven decades of the 20th century American Art came of age. Progressing through a variety of experiments it finally broke through in the late 1940s with a native style called Abstract Expressionism, a revolutionary approach that put the U.S. for the very first time in the vanguard of art.

It is from here Poonam has borrowed various elements and translated them in her own TAIKA way on to fabric. Stuart Davis and Stanton MacDonald-Wright are two such Avant Garde American Abstractionists who inspire her to create A/W 2010-11 collection.

Show started with a lot of spunk/style with models breaking into a jig in a chic collection. It is not every day that you see models smiling and grooving while walking the ramp.

Collection & Detailing: The collection was purely western with a lot of interesting ankle and knee length dresses, skirts and tops; playful with exaggerated collars, winged shoulders, halter necks, asymmetrical necklines, cowls and hoods. Fabric: The collection was in silk and linen along with jersey to create lines that are edgy and dramatic.
Colours: lot of black and ivory fused beautifully with hot pinks and burnt oranges along with a nice combination of aqua.


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