Tuesday, March 26, 2013
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Dances With The Earth@Suhani Pittie- S/S '13
And I saw that the sacred hoop of my people was one of many hoops that made one circle, wide as daylight and as starlight, and in the centre grew one mighty flowering tree to shelter all children of one mother and one father. And I saw that it was holy. Black Elk, Ogalala Sioux
Far beyond the hectic concrete jungle of modern life, there exists a parallel reality, an undiscovered world where people still see and feel things in their purest and innocent forms. They are fierce hunters and warriors who inhabit a world that is green and abundant. They are gentle believers of the Spirits that recognize all of nature, as one. Their lives are far removed from our own today, yet they are where we all began. Theirs is a way of experiencing the world that is perhaps as old as human consciousness itself.
Whether it is the Dongrias of Orissa, the Aborigines of Australia or the Navajos in America, all forest dwellers are privy to an insight that is intimate and profound. They see human beings as only one component in a system of complex inter-relationships between plants, animals and physical forces . All life as it is known to them, human, animal, bird or fish, is part of an unchanging interconnected system, one vast network of relationships. The Earth is perceived as the Mother of all and is inseparable from their own bodies.
They live in uncodified but more personal societies. Relationships are the foundation of their culture. Loneliness is not a problem in their world, whether they are with kin or alone with
nature. Neither is identity. Nor is moral confusion. Or boredom. They remind us that our way is not the only way. Inspite of the incredible hardships and danger they face everyday, their spirit is rich with an ancient wisdom we have forgotten. Their story is written in song.
Their dance is a soul enriching rhythm that honors the circle of life. And, in the unified circle that they form, they venerate their most intimate connection. Within themselves, each other and their Universe.
References: Sacha Dean Biyan, Jared Diamond
Collection Note
Most primitive cultures practiced some form of Paganism. These include folk religions that use animistic, pantheistic or transformational rituals. Jewelry was connected with spirituality and typically revolved around the concept that souls or spirits exist in humans, as well as in animals, plants or inanimate objects. Ornaments became a celebration or an offering to a Spirit in nature that they considered a deity.
Copper , one of the earliest metals used by humans takes predominance in the collection. It is found in its purest forms in nature, a reason perhaps why it was discovered early and was used for its aesthetic quality to create ornaments and artefacts. Suhani employs this metal as her base, to connect and reclaim its original relevance.
The ‘circle’ of connection forms a key shape in the collection – whether it appears in a calm, clean spiral bangle or a fierce ‘spoke’ neckpiece .Coloured cord ‘coils’ bind the concept that all of nature is one.The intertwined trellised vines, flora and fauna in the forest inspired motifs emphasize the forest dwellers’ belief that all life is intricately linked.
Primeval art drawings, earthen dwellings, the sun and moon patterns manifest as a representation of their ancient understanding that the Earth, nature and they themselves are part of a vast network of relationships.Acrylic is infused as an almost ‘aloof and distant’ element to signify an opposing world disconnected from the earliest wisdom we all once had.
Ornaments: hair bands, ‘borlas’, ear buttons, ear 'kanautis', necklaces, belts, cuffs, bangles, armbands, anklets.
Moon Magic@Asmita Marwa
There she stood, in the midst of the busy, starlit flea market... this beautiful gypsy woman bathed in moonlight. Every line on her face reflected deep thought, mystery and intensity, her expressive eyes telling you stories of her travels across oceans and boundaries. She
passed by me, caressing my thoughts and evoking a sense of awe for theextraordinary life she has lived.
Thus was born Moon Magic. Where I explore diverse prints, textures and fabrics reflecting the myriad cultures and places that she may have wandered to, in search of the true meaning of life. The dreamlike collage of Japanese floral prints, hand quilted patchwork jackets and old pieces of mirror-work are a tribute to the eclectic spirit of life. The recurring motif I have used – of the beautiful, earthy women that famous artist Vaikuntam breathed life into – celebrates womanhood. While the synergy of contrasting fabrics and materials,
creates the vibe of an urban gypsy.
Stitching together all of these thoughts is the embroidered "Aham Brahmasmi", the underlying belief of this collection. It means I am Brahman.... I am God... a part of the universal life force. This soulful collection is for the eternal wanderer and truth seeker that
exists in all of us…
Asmita Marwa is an Indian fashion designer, rated by Vogue as one of nine top up-and-coming international designers.
In December 2003 Marwa launched a fashion label, Asmita, sold through her signature store Reves d’Etoile and at "xlnc" in Hyderabad and "Aza" in Mumbai and Delhi. Marwa's designs for Asmita featured in the Blenders Pride Fashion Fringe Show in 2004. In 2008 She Took Part In The Lakme India Fashion Week.
Lakmé Fashion Week:March/April; 2008 The collection "Gaia-An Awakening" Fall Winter March 2009 'Maya and her Jaggery Knots' was Asmita Marwa's third collection, which combined diverse elements like Khadi, Antique Banaras, Tartan Checks, Telugu Calligraphy and giant roses.
For many years Marwah wrote a style column in the Hyderabad Times
Marwah is married to businessman Harvesh Marwah and has a son Karan Aryaman Marwaha.
http://www.asmitadesign.com
Friday, March 15, 2013
Sanchita Ajjampur's Fall Winter- 2013
Womenswear collection- Fall/Winter 13
Menswear collection-Fall/Winter 13
Sanchita Ajjampur
Sanchita was born in Mumbai and moved to
Europe at the age of three. Educated in Vienna and the UK, she studied art in
Paris and earned her Fashion degree at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute
Couture Parisienne. She specialised in fashion and industry at the Domus
Academy, Milan, obtaining a Master's Degree in Fashion and Technology. Having travelled and lived in Europe most of
her life she speaks and writes also German, Italian and French, as well as
colloquial Indian languages.
She returned to Italy to work with Romeo
Gigli in the early 1990s, designing Callaghan then produced by Zamasport in
Novara, and later collaborated with Moschino in Milan and with Tom Ford at
Gucci in Florence and London. She has worked along side Lee Mc Queen for more
than 10 years. She has exhibited her "applied art"
embellished works with artist Arianna Caroli in Rome and Chicago
and with the late John Drake Moore in Venice and Delhi. In 2007,
she worked on ‘Sanchita for Villa Moda’ with Villa Moda Kuwait and Dubai. In
collaboration with Sheikh Majed Al Sabah, Jeff Koons, and Damien Hirst she
worked on the project “sanchita for I love souk” for the Al Sabha Art and
Design Gallery.
A few years ago, Sanchita saw the potential
and opportunities for an Indian fashion brand with western influences and
decided to return to India, choosing the city of Bangalore as her base. In
partnership with her brother, she founded Sanfab Pvt. Ltd, the holding company
of the sanchita brand, one of the first fashion companies in India to develop a
European business model and technology-driven infrastructure. Anthropologie,
Lane Crawford, Hong Kong, Evoluzione, Collage are some of the retail store that
stock Sanchita. She is currently the Creative Director of the sanchita men’s,
women’s and accessories collections and a creative consultant for Lanvin, Etro,
Marni and other European luxury brands which are produced by sanfab.
Sanchita does her own research and
development and has travelled the globe to study its ancient arts and crafts,
especially India, where she learned about spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing
techniques, and wooden-frame embroidery. In addition, she is a specialist in
textiles and applied materials, which she also designs and patents.
Sanchita Fables Book and the Fables
collection was launched in 2010 and the Fables Cool Kids collection for Lane
Crawford, Hong Kong in 2012. In 2012, a collaboration with Swarovski saw her
exhibit sanchita leather accessories studded with Swarovski elements at the
India International Leather Fair in Chennai. She was appointed the Chair Person
for the Indo Italian Chambers of Commerce and Industries South Region in 2012.
The cultural experiences and influences of
different places and peoples have left an indelible imprint on the designer’s
creative spirit, infusing her designs with an innovative and eclectic favor.
Stereotypical boundaries are broken down to focus on body shape, motion and
functional ease in a mix of avant-garde forms and modular pieces that pay
tribute to the femininity and grace, vulnerability and valour, dreams and
desires of the modern woman.
'Humanoids' by Suman Nathwani-Autumn Winter 2013-14
Suman is a category innovator in terms of being India's first sleep wear designer and in counseling women who are recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures. She has been actively interacting with women post the mastectomy procedure and has even counselled and helped in sourcing the correct prosthesis for post ops.
Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.
This season is particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW. The vibrant range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey.
The core inspiration for this collection is derived from
romance and the harmonic connect between human and technology. From lines of
aero dynamism . Reflectivity in surfaces and morphing of metal surfaces; a new
romanticism is derived. This new world has a combination of futuristic
elements; like hybridization of natural and mechanical products, geometrical
shapes and surfaces in pure forms. In single term, the whole concept can be
better termed as "humanoids".
This season is
particularly special as Suman steps outside her area of expertise – luxury
lingerie and sleepwear – and brings a line of beach wear to WIFW . The vibrant
range of kaftans, maxis and beach covers are adorned with detailed prints in
precision placements. The lingerie and sleepwear ranges are luxuriously
handcrafted, using delicate French laces, beautiful Italian braiding
techniques, opulent satins and super-fine silk jersey. The mood is nonchalantly
playful and somewhat self-indulgent. The collection is targeted at the
contemporary woman who dresses to reflect her own moods, rather than to please
her man. Luxury is personal. Therefore, even lingerie is more streamlined and
sexily comfortable, as opposed to restrictive styles that overtly dramatize the
art of seduction. Anyway, romance is different these days; boudoirs and
bedrooms are less about foreplay and ‘tease’, as more couples spend time with
their beloved gadgets before saying good night.
Suman Nathwani is no stranger to bedtime glamour and has single-handedly brought in the revolution of shaking and stirring mindsets and bringing to the fore the concept of designer lingerie and sleepwear in India. Innerwear, sleepwear- the brief and beautiful creations that are meant for bed and boudoir, are making a bold statement thanks to this modest designer from Kolkata.
Suman Nathwani's offers a repertoire of seductive pieces. So it's no wonder she has a loyal clientele, developed over two decades, and spread across the globe.
However, as a daily regimen, she innovates for the average Indian woman, in terms of the materials, delicate embellishments like lace and crystals, color palette, comfort, style and acceptability.
Her role as India's only intimate wear designer comes with an added responsibility of educating the masses about the benefits of wearing the correct innerwear and its physical, emotional and psychological impact.
Suman’s journey in last 2 decades has carved its way through conventional and couture dimensions of new creations in this field.
A regular contributor to prominent magazines and newspapers, Suman has recently started counseling women recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures. Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.
Suman Nathvani is a self made designer and has been designing since 1988. Her aim is to create a market in India for lingerie and sleepwear and convert this segment into a full fledged industry.
Suman, with her unique designing style was the first ever designer to display her sleepwear collection at the Wills India Fashion Week in 2006.
A regular contributor to prominent magazines and newspapers, Suman has recently started counseling women recovering from post operation trauma, specially the ones who have been through body changing procedures. Her effort has been recognized and appreciated by leading cancer specialists and gynecologists.
Suman Nathvani is a self made designer and has been designing since 1988. Her aim is to create a market in India for lingerie and sleepwear and convert this segment into a full fledged industry.
Suman, with her unique designing style was the first ever designer to display her sleepwear collection at the Wills India Fashion Week in 2006.
Thursday, March 14, 2013
Vaishali Shadangule@AW 2013
“MEKHALA”
on my journey on the Indian textile when I was criss-crossing the State
of Assam – the land that offers excellent ground for fishing and hunting, where
still birch bark canoes are used to cross distances, I came across traditional
attire of Assam known as Mekhala chadar.
They were of three pieces (like the South-Indian half saree) – a skirt
like a sarong, a blouse and an additional piece of cloth draped over the
shoulder. The Mekhla (or the skirt) is known for its shine that comes from the
muga silk unique to Assam. The fabric is grown and weaved in almost every
second household of a village. Infact, in every Assamesse house, one can
notice a separate room where looms are fixed. In the afternoon hours, women
folk enters the room and begins weaving with loom echoing the sound all over
tuck a tick , tuck a tick.
Inspired by the magic of fabric, its design and texture, I tried to
innovate something which symbolizes it aesthetically. While working on the
mekhla , I have tried to incorporate elements of that sorts in my designs.
Beautiful drapes and mix of fine constructions will bring out the beauty of it
by retaining original elements will generate a larger interest. Folds, twists
and the turns in the garment symbolize complex lanes and architectural design
of the villages. The vibrant colour pallet of the collection gives a feel of
the brightness of their lifestyle. A random fall in the garment sometimes
surprises you when it appears like a flower. Something which separates muga
silk from mekhala chadar is its motives. So I have contemporized it with fine
cut work and surface texturing of wool and metallic thread.
Over all the collection will make its viewers believe that an Indian
traditional textile is glamorous enough to compete with global fashion race.
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Mrinalini Gupta@A/W - BLACK.LOVERS.ANONYMOUS
Mrinalini started balancing lines in 2002 with NIFT. She furthered her training in design with MAHARISHI-London & Rajesh Pratap Singh practicing design addition and subtraction. Dodging modernity and tradition, Mrinalini seeks to fuse her basic love of things with her love for basic things, always with freedom from a single binding philosophy and an amicable tolerance to minimalism and maximalism
BLACK.LOVERS.ANONYMOUS is a dark collection with accents. Surfacing from the underground, the collection cuts on the intersecting lines of fringe players, hustlers and lively lowlifes in a non linear narrative … black comic style.
Myoho@MELANGE Autumn Winter
Myoho is the passion child of Kiran Jaisinghani and Meghna Agarwal. A showcase culling the essense of Indian handlooms and marrying them with modern sensiblity.
Inspired by the forgotten art of the Gond tribe, the ensemble showcased a suitcase full of muted yet vibrant colours and an eccentric yet eclectic aesthetic. Organic and luxe, this was vintage Myoho. The tribe is indigenous to parts of eastern Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. From the looks of it – The line seems to be a wonderful blend of east meets west. I love how the two are dipping into India’s rich textile heritage and creating something so chic and accessible to women.
Miss Globe International India 2012 Arlette Grao showed off some of the collection. Also seen at the event were Kiran, Meghna, Shruti Bhandari, Vikram Raizada and others.
Myoho’s Autumn Winter Collection, to be shown at the upcoming Wills India Fashion Week On Sunday, March 17th.
Unveiled for a sneak preview on Saturday March 9, 2013 evening at MELANGE, the discreet and upscale fashion house in Altamount Road where the label has been retailing for over five years now, the ensemble showcased a suitcase full of muted yet vibrant colours and an eccentric yet eclectic aesthetic. Organic and luxe, this was vintage Myoho.
CHARU PARASHAR @AUTUMN WINTER 2013
This Autumn Winter season the designer takes you down the lane of romanticism and glam. Out and out an evening collection signifying over the top bling and edgy ensembles.The usp of the collection is the print which is inspired by the tombs and ceilings of Egyptian palaces. The tile work of these tombs tracends into the base fabric of these beautiful prints and the intricate embroideries running all through gives a rich and dramatic feel to the whole collection. Utilitarian design in an artisan direction focusing on functionality and supreme craftsmanship is charu’s take on her Autumn Winter 2013 Collection.
Fabric : The Fabrics used are Silk,Satin,Georgettes, Velvet and Chiffon.
The Sillouethes: The sillouethes are very edgy and structured with Engineered shape and integral structure. Embroidered Pants are the highlight of the collection. On the whole the collection is very high on details and is ultra contemporary with details like side zippers to the trousers , Jackets and Tunics with applique work , quilted shorts , satin printed Blazers, shift dresses and gowns giving it a dramatic red carpet feel.
Colours: The Collection palette starts with grey as a base colour giving warmth with opulent emerald green vase print on top. Going into the palette of grey and red. Ending with a mix of Grey yellow and Orange extending a luxe soul to these beautifully crafted ensembles.
As a “New Generation” designer, Charu Parashar is constantly motivated towards taking the exotic Indian craftsmanship and ancient printing techniques to the highest levels of luxury. The world of luxury couture in India has its own imprints. Flowing hemlines playing peekaboo with Bling and fitted forms creating magic with the beauty that is the Indian woman.
One of India’s Most Admired Couturiers, Charu parashar is synonymous with classic designs of understated elegance. A strong design sensibility Combined with rich detailing through the genius of centuries old Indian Craftsmanship Techniques undoubtly makes her ensembles Desired by the woman of today. The brand exudes a sense of Romantic-sexy sophistication empowering the Modern woman.
Charu Parashar label has built a strong legacy in the organized fashion segment in India and internationally. The label retails from 54 hi street fashion outlets across 7 countries globally today. In the last 10 years its showcase journey has been across New York, Philadelphia, Dubai, Kuwait, Toronto, London, Jakarta, Barcelona, Paris and Milan which clearly indicates the acceptance of the label into a larger and contemporary Diasporas. Her quest for providing perfect quality with immaculate finish & attention to detail for every garment has earned her respect globally.
Charu Parashar is Designer member with Fashion Design Council of India and has been regularly showcasing in Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Dubai Fashion Week and many other International platforms.
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Dark Knights by Nalanda Bhandari@ AW 2013
Autumn Winter 2013 Collection Dark Knights
Designer Nalanda Bhandari's Muse is a Girl - a Dream of the Knight in shining armour!
The Collection showcases a Distinct Day Casual ,and Evening Wear look which one can wear to work and after,fitted body forms that give the figure a great look and an evening wear Collection with kaftans to cater to the middle eastern market.
This Girl is the Dream of the Knight in shining armour!
Feminine, free spirited and confident. Her label encapsulates all that a woman is - sexy, sensual, and with a mind of her own. The line plays around strong silhouettes, international trends and a very distinct personality. Well heeled, articulate and comfortable in her skin, this woman steers towards graceful, romantic and avant garde creations. With emphasis on quality, cut and finish complimenting the woman, her current Creations reflect the trend of the season with sprinkles of embellishments and embroidery.
The label houses a fully functional workshop in Mumbai and the under the expert guidance of Nalandda, the line has established a patronage from among the crème of the society.
VIRTUES: AW13 @ WIFW, New Delhi.
AW’13 collection is inspired by the Nawabs of Awadh in 18th century. An Indian line by the designers is a story of Zubeida – a courtesan in the post-Mughal state of Awadh during the 18th century. The Nawabs of Awadh were renowned for their extravagance and patronage of the best courtesans, craftsmen and cooks. The cultural accomplishments of this time and place have resonated well beyond its borders and today its memories are still capable of evoking a potent sense of nostalgia.
The collection is a story of a courtesan and her extensive wardrobe with rich vintage embroideries and classy cuts. The silhouettes are adapted from a period and are retouched to give more contemporary look. The Lehengas, The Kalidars, The Kediya Jackets The Dupattas – imply a complete covered yet a sexy look.
The colors are strictly black and shades of white with hints of pinks and reds. The fabrics used are Georgettes, Cottons and Mashroos. There is a an extensive use of hand block prints in natural dyes on Mashroos and cottons.
Virtues by Viral, Ashish and Vikrant is based from Ahmedabad and retailed at major designer stores across the country. Vintage Indian textiles have remained their inspiration. Experimenting with yarn and weavers have always been a passion.
Monday, March 11, 2013
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)