Friday, March 05, 2010

Lakme Fashion Week - Summer Resort, Day 2, 6/3/10

Gen Next Show

Pooja Kapoor
“Nip and Tuck” was the title of the collection by Pooja Kapoor and the designer proved her expertise with layers for chiffon dresses, very free flowing and relaxed in silhouettes for summer wear. Pleating details appeared on shoulders while cowls on jersey necklines with pin tucks added to the glamour of garments. Dhoti draped skirts, asymmetrical jackets and wrap around dress and summer coat with voluminous sleeve interest added to the charm of the collection which was high on construction but utterly feminine to behold.

Sabah Khan
For something very funky, quirky and wacky, Sabah Khan showed a colourful cotton collection of separates with prints of women on the blouses, skirts and dresses as the focal point of the line. Colour blocking played an important part of the sun dresses which were often teamed with churidars or pants. While appliqués added excitement to the long bubble tops with maxi bias skirts. Patch work also came into the collection which at times had the retro French musketeer influence or a touch of harlequin fun aspects.

Sandeep Sarkar
Showing a pure prêt line of white with touches of shaded green and yellow for breezy summer wear, there were touches of sheer and opaque in the layered creations by Sandeep Sarkar. Pastel colours with delicate embroidery added to the feminine charm of the garments as chiffon, organza, net and voile was turned into shirts, blouses, cool jackets and tiny shrugs. A great mix and match look for summer that could sell well.

Siddhartha Upadhyaya
Calling the collection “As you Like It” Siddhartha Upadhaya allowed the wearer to choose between the regular or upside way of wearing his creations which gave two options for the price of one; as all the eight creations were completely reversible. Red, blue, rose, grey, white for fabrics like satin and silk had intricate detailing on one side while the reverse showed another look of the dress. Net edged some of the hems, while fan shaped fringes added interesting detailing to the will-power edges of the cocktail creations. A very interesting line in these days of recession
Sougat Paul
Swirls of fabrics, appliqués, tonal embroidery was cleverly used for summer skirts and dresses and innovative texturing which gave the collection by Sougat Paul a very highly crafted extreme look. Shades of purple, maroon, beige, and cream, satin and silk were meticulously crafted. The detailed origami touches and 3D texturing of fabrics for all the women’s wear was beautifully done in an unconventional and dramatic manner. Here was a collection ideal for cocktail glamour.

Sukhwant Buttar & Aastha Sharma
Called “Auction of Humanity” and the inspiration from the slaves of Africa the eight garments by Sukhwant Buttar and Aastha Sharma was a story in grey, beige and black for silhouettes which were a mix of lean and slim with wide and voluminous along with touches of the bondage look and detailing like gathers, cowls and strapped belts. The fabrics were coarse and slubbed with frayed seams to give a rustic look to the garments. It was a stylish collection with a touch of the contemporary. Short balloon one shoulder dress, a dress with interesting knife pleats, asymmetric cuts in skirts and a one loose batwing sleeve flared dress will make good conversation pieces in fashion.

Surbhi Chawla
It was a story of drapes and elegant evening wear by Surbhi Chawla in shades of nude pink, peach, tan, pale moss, white and dark grey. Cowls added style to long shirts with kimono sleeves and pleating was the centre of attraction for gowns with embroidered neckline. Oversized shirts worked very well with striped pants and a very hep dungaree with floral embroidery in fuchsia georgette was a great addition. Georgette and chiffon were the favoured fabrics for the collection and at times used cleverly for the rouched trousers. Very stylish and at times avant garde in appearance the outfits had a trendy youthful appeal,

Vipin Batra
Presenting a well designed all knit line of minis and slinky gowns in shades of blue, grey and rose, Vipin Batra’s beautiful but simply designed cotton knit creations with the wonderful geometric abstract swirls and designs that highlighted the outfits was aptly called “Swirls of Light”. The silhouettes were very basic to allow the designs to make an impact and the line was a perfect option for summer/resort 2010 which will have amazing mass appeal.

Show 12 PM

Check Gen Next Show Designer pics at; http://cid-22c005f54ce57e80

Anupama Dayal
The explosive colours and burning thirst of the ancient sands mix with the seductive distraction of resort living perfectly defines the look of my collection - As said by Claude Monet, “Colour is my day long obsession, joy and torment,” .Her collection draws inspiration from the vivacious city of Jaisalmer but with a twist, where Jaisalmer meets Ibiza. Collection is for the nomadic, freedom loving, green conscious, fearless and liberal but, at the same time, very feminine woman. Well described as the strong minded woman of today. Palette is more mad and crazy. The colour sensibilities and the unique spirit of Rajasthan has been well highlighted and I’ve never gone more crazy with colours - it’s all about spicy greens, dancing reds, fire pinks, kingfisher blues and marbled colours.” Free flowing, voluminous, loose dresses, kaftans, tunics, skirts, saris, resort dresses and floor sweeping dresses in a medley of signature prints, Rajasthani embroidery, tie and dye, embellished with gota work, patch and appliqué work. Draping, pleating, and wraps offer the idle look of resort wear line, woven in variety of fabrics, mainly layer upon layers of sheer fabrics to offer transparency and light feel. Tie and dye leheriyas, shiboris, chiffons, silks, chanderis, and georgettes have been treated with organic dyes to provide a soft feel to the garments. Models on the runway will be featuring bronze faces, couture with minimal makeup - overall a Sun Goddess meeting a warrior princess look, well accessorized with jewellery, designed by the desginer herself.

A riot of colours exploded on the ramp as a flowing resort line dazzled the audience with hints of nomadic silhouettes. Dresses, kaftans, tunics, saris, skirts, resort gowns were dappled with prints and twinkled with Rajasthani embroidery and gota work. Drapes, layering, pleats and wraps gave an utterly feminine touch to the sheer translucent fabrics. The simple green shirt dress in marbled colours, the wrap dress constructed by using leheriya and marbled dyes in shades of pink, the pretty layered long dress with layers of prints, front wrap dresses, the long desert dress in georgette with slit bell sleeves and tiny fitted waist coat, the hand printed pleated backless halter with a front cross over and dresses with drapes and knotted strategically at the waist and shoulder were part of this very festive and utterly fluid collection.

The bronzed sun goddess look for the models.

Shilpa Chavan (The Little Shilpa)
Her models were uniformly clad in long sleeved white shirts but it was their head gear that had the audience applauding all the way. Shilpa Chauhan’s Little Shilpa label’s summer/resort offering for extreme head gear was titled “Life in Technicolor” and that is exactly what it was with multi coloured acrylic pieces in varying geometric shapes arranged on the head, shoulders, wrists, arms and even ankles. Inspired by the Apache Red Indian look there were feathers, leaves and assorted pieces arranged imaginatively on the head. Sling bags matched the look and white stockings which even covered the shoes kept the attention on the millinery skills of Shilpa. Her finale was an almost alien monster look in a white bodysuit covered with colourful pieces that got a standing ovation from the audience.
Show: 1:30 PM

Shrivan Narresh - Beachwear was the focal point of the summer/resort collection by designers, Shrivan and Narresh. Body suits, maillots, slinky sarongs, pareos, even a beach sari were in controlled colours of blue, grey, black, white, yellow, coral, mauve, blue and orange. Beautifully tailored and innovatively designed, the look of the creations was sleek and elegant which would work wonderfully on the beaches of Rio to the Riviera and from Goa to Mumbai. Blocked bandeau bikinis, tube dresses, one shoulder maillots, and sari drape sarongs, added glamour to a very well crafted collection that would be a great seller for relaxed wear on the beach or off.
Show: 1:30 PM

Didier Lecoanet and Hémant Sagar
Designer duo are all set to unveil- ‘GREEN’- their S/S line Monsoon Collection for Men and Women - “What you wrap around your body is what you wrap around your soul and this collection is a reflection of our green philosophy and our deepest belief that eco-friendly and luxury gel well together”. Adding silhouettes to their latest bevy in order facilitate a rare alliance of East and West. “A lasting continuation of yesterday and tomorrow”, Their concern towards environment, the collection will be a step towards sustaining your style while adorning oneself with sensuous naturalness. “Balancing fashion with substance. Earthy feel of the collection which consists of elegant and glamorous silhouettes like knee length dresses, shift dresses and trademark jackets is highlighted through the choice of material and nature-inspired designs like organic cotton, poplin, khadi, wild and handloom silk in colours of red to rust, cream, beige, black, and moss green, with lots of bleached and unbleached denim.

Trousers, jackets and knee length dresses, Drapes and flowing necklines, embroidery cut outs mimicking bamboo and frangipani leaves, metal mesh.Embroidery used in an innovative manner by the designers as the camouflage motifs of bamboo and frangipani leaves, Morse code and X-ray prints, & floral themes to further promote the environmental look.

Men's Wear; The sharply cut one-button men’s Mao jackets, leather jacket with front zip, hooded mesh sailor shirt, blue denim trousers with knee darts, and the extended waistband trousers in red synthetic duchesse. Women’s wear: glamorous and intricately constructed with interesting detailing. The white cotton rouched buttoned shirt, the silk chiffon textured jacket, the organic cut out apron top and paneled shorts, the crème leather box bolero, the silk faille pleated dress with mesh neckline, the leather macramé neck plastron, and the black mesh sequined skirt, cocktail dress with beaded shoulders and the stunning black chiffon plisse evening gown.

Show; 5 PM

Digvijay Singh
Showcasing an innovative and organic collection. Go green with bhu:sattva. With the usage of best organic fabrics, excellent designs, natural herbal dyes, and finest designers from all across the traditional land of the country, bhu:sattva perfectly represents this mission of using eco-friendly clothing unveiling his creative designs to match the taste of today’s youth. Inspired from the concept of ‘Anekantavada’ – the fundamental doctrines of Jainism, the collection represents simultaneous transformations or organic growth of any form which can be perceived differently by each individual. “It speaks of the two different aspects that exist in everything around us that is eperceived differently each time - an ode to the ever changing points of view. With a mission to empower the craftsmen and technicians socially and economically, this initiative will encourage the multicultural and ethnical influences by reviving the ancient and languishing arts which in turn will collectively and significantly alter and shape the Indian textiles. Collection - a blend of Indian and Western cuts and silhouettes has been crafted out of a variety of fabrics mainly organic cottons, silks and cotton silk blends, dipped in shades of whites, reds, purples, grey and greens, with a tinge of brick reds and maroons, beiges and mustards and blacks.

The interesting ensembles that caught the eye were the opening black silk slashed kurta with orange appliqué on one side, the balloon sleeved cross front blouse, the two tone grey silk jacket, lavender checked blouse, skirt layered over Jodhpuris, wrap around skinny pants, the gold two toned Elizabethan collar jacket and the wrap around silk blouse with permanent pleated sleeves. Detailing was restricted to partial side layers for jackets or blouses or a flowing attached cape to shirts and belts for blouses and jackets. The Showstopper was Bollywood hottie “Prince” Vivek Oberoi who regally strutted down the ramp in a cream textured high collar Banjara inspired kurta with wrapped pre-stitched dhoti.

Show: 3 PM

Abdul Halder
Collection focuses on wedding trousseaus, garments targeted at both men and women - All about bridal creations .
with antique Victorian elements, Mughal inspired motifs; intricate embroidery, the collection can be aptly described as a blend of modern and traditional elements. Abdul has played around with polkis, kundans and Swarovski elements. - rendering the perfect bridal look to the urbane woman. Drapes used offering slimmer slender look, Highlight of the show - beautiful lehengas inspired by the combination of the Mughal and the Victorian eras. The collection comprises lehengas, achkans, suits, shararas, sherwanis, making for the usual menswear line. Colour ;vibrant hues like pink, orange, fuchsia, green, blue, yellow, red and purple. Fabrics: tulle, voiles, georgettes, satin, velvet, raw silk and brocade. Look of the models - a blend of both worlds, more like east meeting the west. A modern Indian bride with a touch of traditional elegance.

Luxurious tulle, shimmering brocade, slinky silk and satin, sheer georgettes and voiles and lush velvets in an exotic colour story of purple, red, blue, yellow, green, fuchsia, orange and pink, dazzled on the catwalk. The polkis, kundans and crystal work completed the opulent bridal wear. The very dramatic and exotic jewellery by the M B Group was breathtaking. Stunning saris in jade with cholis or corsets short embroidered jackets with velvet Patiala pants, strappy flared long empire line kurtas, lush bridal lehenga choli and dupatta trios were dazzling creations. The men’s wear was regal with cross over sherwanis and churidars which complemented the feminine garments
Show: 3 PM

CellDesgn - Smitha Singh Rathore & Himanshu Shani
‘A la mode a la mort’ – a French word which can be translated into the term that defines, Fashion until death at the LFW Summer/Resort 2010. "No matter how crazy things go, you need to be fashionable," Collection highlights similar Victorian influences with a twist of gothic, punk and dandy look. The assortment has a darker side accentuated by the use of handmade lace and net to offer a destroyed image. The collection is feminine with a darker twist (mostly inspired from the Alice in Wonderland look).- It is a portrayal of a whimsical fairy tale line of clothing gone wrong and turned gloomy with splash of grey emotions. Monochromatic shades of beige, whites, grey with a tint of red and green over a wide range of fabrics like silk, tulle, gauze, cotton, light voiles and cotton silks along with lace and net. Draped dresses, shirts, shorts and skirts will be developed into a new identity with hand spray, hand prints, dying techniques and over dying. & bleaching. Showcasing the necessity of fashion in everyone’s life, the designers target the young and the restless, all set for experimentation. Look of the models - a magical feel, blend with a futuristic and vintage look.

English rose hand prints and sprays, bleaching and over dyeing added a surrealistic touch to the creations. The collection was worn over painted full body suits to give the creations a special emphasis. Lattice work shift, draped linen jersey dresses, gauze shirts with floral cutwork, and draped silk tulle dress with print, handmade lace and watch dial embellishment were some of the highlights of the show. Aimed at the trendy adventurous fashionistas, the collection was an interesting dramatic presentation of style and elegance.
Show 1;30 PM

Manish Malhotra
With his collection "Glam Slam - San Tropez" he is all set to prove & break the myth "that only western tunics and floory dresses make for a resort wear collection". He wants to make people see that Indian wear can gel well with the theme of resort wear. He showcased his Bridal Collection inspired by resort wear at the Couture Week in Mumbai last year.

Pants with cowls, kurtas paired with leggings - A well ccessorised show with beach bags, summer hats etc. Unlike most designers who consider resort wear to be restricted only to women, Manish has laid enough importance on pieces for men as well. (cleaner. Beige pants, linen shirts, comfortably structured bandhgalas. Inspired from the French province of San Tropez, In stark contrast with the way they dress down during the morning, oozing out glamour in there dressing sense.
The Collection offers a Glam-Slam look while on having a night out on a holiday, Georgettes, satin and crepe have been used to essay the story.

Kurtas one shoulder in shape, and while the dupatta went missing, there was luxurious layering. Leggings with sparkling touches teamed with kurtas. pastel with a hint of shading (colour), net as the base fabric, worked for a pair of dhoti pants and sheer floor length covers over sexy bikinis and transparent anarkali kurtas. Geometric jersey additions, diaphanous kurtas edged with velvet borders or embroidered touches swirled down the ramp. Net and chiffon saris were teamed with churidars and the ‘net over prints’ concept created a great sexy effect for the garments; while satin and silk worked for micro shorts in shades of old gold. Distinct partiality towards the creativity around bundgala. Trousers cowled in different textures. Casual wear moved from white shirts with billowy sleeves to T-shirts and pastel coloured bundgala jackets with a variety of collars and closures which ranged from one to two buttons and clusters of three. Contrast piping edged collars, pockets and plackets.

Models in clean but sexy look. & bear ‘Bed Head’ hair(woken-up look).

Show: 9 PM

Nachiket Barve

Nachiket Barve's Ensemble "Abstract" (Theme) interpretation - for the thinking woman who wants something extraordinary. His Fall/Winter 2010/11 in colours of white, grey, black, red, azure, scarlet, sapphire blue, gold, silver, purple and metallic green.

Fabrics traversed from sheer chiffon, georgette, organza to crepe, shot silk, Lurex, resist dyed silk and Dupion silk. Sheer over solid magic for layered dresses, tunics and blending fluidity with construction; Designer played with silhouettes and lengths. Appliqués, graphic effects, 3D and thread embroidery, cutwork, patchwork lace, hand work with silk, bugle beads and sequins for his embellishments. With an emphasis on graphics and using fabrics as embellishments. Squiggles, Shibori, shading, crimping, petal skirts, hems & vanishing circles embroidery details. The Shibori pleated shift with squiggle appliqué, degrade dyed silk panelled dress, gilet with patches of cutwork in Lurex, an another in asymmetrical organza one with sequins, appliquéd circles and cutwork, black chiffon bias cut dress with asymmetric hem and yoke embellished with bugle beads, the very elegant draped layered belted gown with deep ‘V’ neckline and the dramatic organza bolero with a chiffon front overlap gown.

Appliqués, graphic effects, 3D and thread embroidery, cutwork, patchwork lace, hand work with silk, bugle beads and sequins for his embellishments. Opposites played a major role throughout the collection but with an emphasis on graphics and using fabrics as embellishments. There was skilful erosion of fabrics to show the layer below. Detailing included squiggles, Shibori, shading, crimping, petal skirts and hems as well as vanishing circles embroidery. Each outfit was a work of exquisite construction and timeless in its beauty. The Shibori pleated shift with squiggle appliqué, degrade dyed silk panelled dress, gilet with patches of cutwork in Lurex, an another in asymmetrical organza one with sequins, appliquéd circles and cutwork, black chiffon bias cut dress with asymmetric hem and yoke embellished with bugle beads, the very elegant draped layered belted gown with deep ‘V’ neckline and the dramatic organza bolero with a chiffon front overlap gown were part of a collection that was painstakingly crafted and designed to perfection in easy shapes.

Show 7 PM

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